Just a little imagination and inventiveness, however, can turn the humble garden shed into a positive asset, providing an extension to your living space that's as attractive as it is useful. Using garden sheds to get the most out of your home takes a little money but reaps large rewards.
Garden Produce
Give your vegetable garden a head start and save money in the process by using a section of the shed as a potting area. Arrange a bench, or shelf, beneath the window to catch the most light, and use the area to bring on seeds, repot houseplants, or divide garden shrubs. The warmth of the shed will offer vital protection to seedlings until they can be planted out in the vegetable garden, and you'll have the satisfaction of growing from seed.
Summerhouse
Sheds come in all shapes and sizes, and if yours is large enough you could turn it into a summerhouse or a crafts area. Paint the shed in a pale, summery shade and adorn it with hanging baskets. Place colourful planters by the door and soften its edges with mature shrubs.
The kids will welcome somewhere to play out of the weather and it'll give you a place for messy craft activities, such making papier mache, that won't leave your kitchen in a tangle. Alternatively, your summerhouse can be a convenient garden area to prepare cold drinks or store summer snacks. If you run an electrical cable down the garden, you can install a small fridge or set up a television. Transporting some of your activities out to a suitably equipped garden shed expands the use you get from your home, allowing to more fully use the available space.
Home Office
Dividing work hours and leisure hours is a constant thorn in the sides of those who work from home. Having a home office that's detached from the house provides the solution since the physical act of entering or leaving the workplace marks the beginning and end of the working period. Make sure the roof is secure and the interior walls are lined and weatherproofed, secure the door with a sturdy lock and provide some form of heating, and your garden shed is ready to be kitted out with a desk, cabinets and drawers.
Labels: Garden, Garden Sheds, Home, Sheds
Since 1868 the Park Seed Company has provided gardeners with seeds, plants, and other gardening products. The company was founded in Libonia, Pennsylvania, by George W. Park, a teenager who first sold dried seeds to his neighbors. Park published his first small seed catalog in 1868. Over the years the company grew, and in 1902 it moved to a larger facility in La Park, Pennsylvania. The Parks moved to Florida in the early 1920s, but they found the weather there to be too hot and humid to properly store seeds. In 1924 Park moved the company headquarters to his wife’s hometown of Greenwood, South Carolina. Today the business is located on 500 acres of land. There are research facilities, processing areas, temperature controlled storage facilities, the mail order business, a garden center, and extensive trial gardens on the site.
The Park Seed trial gardens draw visitors from all over the country. Gardeners are welcome to walk through the nine acres of demonstration gardens. A number of the company’s All American selections may be viewed. Plant lovers will be able to see the best new plant selections before they become available to the general public. Only the highest performing selections will eventually come on the market. Visitors may enjoy the rose garden, the water garden, the container garden, and a number of other theme gardens. Over 2,000 varieties of plants may be seen.
The Park Seed garden Center also welcomes visitors. The center is open during the spring and summer months on Tuesday-Saturday from 10am-6pm. More than 1,100 varieties of flower and vegetable seeds are available for purchase. All seeds are top quality untreated seeds. Certified organic seeds are also available. In addition bulbs and live plants are available for purchase.
Each year the Park Seed Company trial gardens are a featured venue at the South Carolina Festival of Flowers. The festival is one of Southeast Tourism’s Top 20 Events. Park Seed Flower Day is one of the most popular activities. The greenhouses are open to the public and horticulturists give guided tours of the trial gardens. The festival’s 2011 Flower Day is June 25 from 8am-4pm.
The Park Seed Company’s Garden Center and trial gardens are located on Highway 254 (Cokesbury Road) in Greenwood, South Carolina. There is no charge to stop and smell the flowers.
Labels: Delight, Garden, Greenwood, South Carolina
Many vegetable seeds will grow well and give you a good crop if you can plant them straight into tilled soil in hills or rows. The supplies that you are going to need for a vegetable garden include a garden hose, garden rake, garden trowel, vegetable seeds, shovel, and a watering can. First be sure your outdoor temperatures will not be dropping to the freezing level; if the seeds freeze they will not survive. The vegetable seed packets will give you the information regarding when you can start planting in your area, how deep the seeds need to be place, how far apart the seeds should be and the best method for producing great results.
If you plan on planting the seeds in rows you need to make several channels with the use of a garden hoe. Each of the channels needs to be as deep as recommended by the seed packet for that vegetable. Generally speaking the larger the seed the deeper it gets planted in the soil. The small carrot seeds only need to be about 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep while the larger seeds, such as beans, will need to be planted a good two inches deep. Place the seeds in the channel at the recommended distance apart, then cover loosely with the back of a rake or with your hands. Tamp that row of seeds with the back side of your rake enough so the wind will not blow the soil away. Water thoroughly but use a garden hose or watering can that is equipped with a fine-spray.
For hill planting gather your soil to form a mound to a 3 to 4" height and 12 to 18" width. Your seed packet will probably let you know high and wide the hills need to be for planting. You can use your finger or a stick to make a hole into the center of the mound as deep as recommended. Insert 2 or 3 seeds into the hole, cover them with the soil and press down just enough to make sure the soil contacts the seeds well. Thoroughly water the hills the same way as if you planted in rows.
Often times it can be better to plant varieties of flower seed indoors and then transplant them to the flower garden after the last frost. The time needed before transplanting outdoors depends on the flowers you choose. All this information can be found on the individual seed packet or in a seed catalog. Some packets tell you to plant indoors 6 to 8 weeks before the last frost. Some seeds such as zinnias or cosmos can be planted directly outdoors but in order to get an early start you can plant them inside first to transplant later. Geraniums and licorice plants may need as long as twelve weeks before they start sprouting.
The main reason for starting seeds indoors is to help germination by use of heat and water and seed growth with the help of grow lights. You can help prevent "damping-off" with proper drainage and air circulation; this air circulation can be done with an electric fan blowing across the soil surface gently during the daytime. You want to start "hardening off" your tender seedlings a week to 10 days before planting outdoors. Stop fertilizing, cut watering down to half the amount, keep then in a cooler inside space, start letting them receive some direct sunlight and introduce them to outdoor temperatures. You can start by placing the trays outside for about an hour during mid day and increase gradually the time spent outdoors. You do not want them out when it is cold, in heavy rain, strong winds and bring them inside during the night.
Before you purchase any garden seeds pick up some garden seed catalogs and do some browsing to see the different varieties of flower seed and vegetable seed packets that might interest you. You may even want to try some that you have never heard of before and it might turn out to your liking. Just remember to use reliable sources when you purchase your garden seed.
Labels: Garden, Garden Seed
How to Plant a Vegetable Garden - Planting a Healthy Vegetable Garden at Home
0 comments Posted by ariya at 6/16/2011One of the first things you need to know when looking to learn how to plant a vegetable garden is making the most from your the space you have available. You will be surprised how many fresh vegetables you can grow even with limited space for a plot. If possible try and stay away from any trees which can steal nutrients away from your vegetables.
Vegetables need plenty of sunshine, look for an area that receives plenty of morning sun. Preparation is the key to learning how to plant a vegetable garden you can be proud of. One of the secrets to growing a great garden is soil preparation, it is critical.
With soil preparation you must remove all weeds, avoid any weed killers and remove them by hand. You must test the pH level of your soil, anything around a reading of 6.5 is ideal. If you are unable to test it yourself head over to your local gardening store for testing.
Having your soil pH either too high or two low will restrict nutrients to your vegetables. garden lime is commonly used to bring up low pH soil levels. Dig the soil over and look to get to depth of about 30cm (12").You should allow 4-5 weeks before you begin to plant any vegetables.
Now you might be asking what vegetables you can plant? This will be dependent on climate zone so speak to your gardening store about the ideal vegetables for your area. You can pick up seedling for a great price and begin planting after your soil preparation.
The key to learning how to plant a vegetable garden from scratch picking the right vegetables that you can rotate year around to help eliminate pests and disease problems.
Organic fertilizers such as animal manure and garden composts are fantastic for providing nutrients to your vegetables as well as improving soil conditions and structure. Organic fertilizers help retain moisture which is very important. Watering your garden is important but try to ensure it doesn't become waterlogged and allow for proper drainage.
Labels: Garden, Home, Plant, Vegetable, Vegetable Garden
Some people are lucky and have this innate gift of knowing how to design space, making it a pleasing place to be in. Others don't have this gene and find it very difficult to visualise how the space will work. To create a good design it is important you understand that design is about managing space and people moving around it. The core of good garden design centres round patterns and the space within these patterns. By using geometrical shapes, circles, triangles, rectangles etc. you can achieve a unified feel to your garden. So you need to think about ground patterns and movement around your garden. Where would you like people to go? Ground patterns can be achieved with the use of bricks, paving and plant material such as cut grass etc.
Formal gardens are symmetrical and geometrical and are strict in terms of repeating patterns and plant materials on either side. It is very controlled, plants are clipped, shaped, manipulated regularly and today is often suitable for small gardens like court yards. Urns, balustrades, stone, gravel paths, parterres, formal pools and framed views are all part of the formal garden. There are no surprises, you know what to expect.
Informal designs are asymmetrical and not as regimented. Plant material is allowed to spill over the structural elements such as walls, steps and paths. Plant material is allowed to self-seed and wander around the garden. Informal garden design is softer, full of surprises thus you don't know what to expect.
And semi formal is the combination of the above two. Usually it is the built structures such as retaining walls, paths and steps that are formal and the informal element is the plant material which is allowed to spill over them, softening their hard outlines.
Within these three types, there are many different styles of gardens to choose from such as contemporary, Japanese, Mediterranean, cottage, courtyard, kitchen garden or secret garden.
Contemporary is a modern style that likes to reflect the surrounding but also use a wide range of plant material. Form and texture of foliage are as important as flowers. Hard landscaping is woven into geometrical shaped buildings; all of which flow into the wider landscape. Plants are used as focal points to highlight the architectural forms.
Cottage was a late nineteenth-century ideal to return to the simple cottages of the country. They were planted with hardy bulbs, flowers, fruit bushes and herbs and vegetables. They were geometric, colours were harmonised and luxurious as plants grew well as they were heavily manured regularly.
Mediterranean is not limited to one particular area but are defined according to hot summers and low rainfall. They encompass entertaining areas, shade, good views and dramatic shadows. Hot colourful plants are used and lots of lush green foliage plants to create a cool atmosphere. Plants need to be drought tolerant. Evergreen plants are popular because they cast shade on hot days. Walls are white washed to reflect the sun, pergolas built to create shade and use terracotta pots. There is often a water feature and water provides cooling vibes.
Japanese gardens encompasses religion and Japan's cultural history. Japanese gardens are very symbolic often the symbols relate to nature. Plants are 'tamed' and there is an emphasis on evergreen trees and shrubs. They are very controlled and often minimalist. True Japanese gardens are contemplative a place of meditation and great calm.
Planning
If you feel overwhelmed and don't know where to start when designing your garden, I suggest you break it up into areas called rooms thus dividing one big space into several smaller spaces. For example: there is the front garden, the side garden and the back garden. Once you have decided where they begin and end you can then divide each of those areas up again. For example in the back garden you could have the entertaining area, the grass/children's area, the utilities area (includes the compost heap and shed), the pool area and the vegetable/orchard area. Once you have defined the areas/rooms you can tackle one at a time, thus making a huge project into several smaller projects.
The Three Planning Stages
To create an interesting and exciting garden there are 3 sets of plans (may be four if you need an engineer's structural plans) you need to devise:- Site Analysis Plan, Concept Plan and Planting Plan, usually all drawn to scale.
The First Steps
To design a garden that works there are several things you need to do before buying plants and planting them. If you follow these steps you are more likely to have a successful garden.
Site Analysis
It is important to make an inventory of the area you are designing. Things to include are:
Levels - steep/flat
Aspect - North/south
Sun/shade
Sun Summer/Winter
Shadows
Existing trees and buildings
Wind
Views - good and bad
Soil conditions
Entrances - Front/back doors
Power lines
Underground cables and pipes
Clothes line
Fences
Sheds and garages
Paved and unpaved areas
Patio/BBQ
Lighting
Drainage - runoff of storm watered
Once you have noted the above, it is time to draw up the space. You can draw it roughly (not to scale) but eventually you will have to draw it to scale. Start by measuring the area you are designing, draw it to scale ie. 1:100 and put all the above points onto your drawn plan. All these influences need to be drawn on paper, so that you can gauge any trends. For example there might be a paved path from the back door to the garage, but everyone takes a short cut across the lawn, creating a desire line. No - one uses the paved path. So perhaps pave the desire line and make it the official path.
The next step is the concept plan and this is the plan where you put down you ideas. It can be as wild and as adventurous as you like. Forget cost, enjoy your creativity. This is the stage where you put down your dreams of what you have always wanted. Later on, you hip pocket will decide for you whether you can have them. Anything is possible, so don't be shy, dream away. Again this can be roughly drawn or to scale, it is up to you.
The third and final plan is the planting plan and it is preferable that it is drawn to scale as this allows you to know exactly how many plants you will need. It incorporates all the ideas you have decided upon and shows you how the finished garden is going to look. It is the road map which will guide you to building your new garden.
There may be a fourth plan if your site is steep or you are having major elements built, as you may need the advice of an engineer.
Points to Consider
Think about your soil conditions, is it heavy clay or light and sandy? What plants will grow in these conditions? Are some areas boggy and some always dry?
Sun conditions
The sun is higher in the sky during spring and summer and shadows are shorter. Whereas in winter, the sun is lower in the sky and casts longer shadows. So a plant might be in full sun in summer and complete shade in winter. Can it tolerate this? Also think about the conditions the plants require. Are they full sun plants like roses or shade loving plants like azaleas?
Wind
You also need to think about wind direction. Which way does the prevailing wind come from? Screens and hedges are one way of managing this problem but what problems are they going to cause? Making the block feel narrow, casting shadows etc? It is important to know because some plants don't like wind and it is no good putting the BBQ/entertainment area in an uncomfortable spot.
Views
Views out your window or from your garden are very important. Some are intrusive while others are desired. If you wish to block out flats/neighbours etc. you may need to put in a higher fence or a hedging screen of some kind. Or you may want to design your garden to enhance the view of the mountain, ocean etc.
Utilities and Service Lines
You also need to be aware where your services and utilities are; things like clothesline, overhead power lines etc. If you damage the gas, telephone or electricity lines, you are liable to pay for their repair.
Principles of garden design
To create a well designed garden, it is important to put the right plant in the right position. This means considering the cultural requirements of the plant. For example putting a full sun plant such as rose into a shady position isn't going to work, because the rose won't be receiving the right amount of sunlight for it to grow. The idea of good garden design is to follow this philosophy, using the placement of plants to create mystery, tension and surprise by using tricks of the eye, colours and textures.
Tension, mystery and surprise make a garden interesting. One way to create these is to use hedges, low walls, screens, paths, steps to make individual 'garden rooms' with tension points that captures your attention on the way. For example a narrow oblong garden can be made more interesting if you can't see the back fence - that there is a feature (plant or statue etc.) that obscures the fence. It also becomes more interesting if the path way is narrow then opens up into another room. A winding path adds mystery to the garden if you can't see what is around the corner. Surprise comes when you go around the corner and discover a focal point.
A focal point is something like a seat/statue/water feature that leads your eye directly to it. For example - a pergola that has a statue at the end of it. The statue is the feature and is the reason why you look/walk to see it. Another example of a focal point is a pathway leading through a door that is open and shows a vista of the wider landscape.
The success of the focal point can depend on the how successfully the ground patterns lead you there. If the paving encourages you along this path thus creating some tension and mystery, you are more likely to follow the path to see what's there because you have become inquisitive. Narrow paths encourage you to walk quickly and not to dilly dally along the way, where as wide paths say stroll, take you time, look at the surrounding vegetation. A gentle curve can be negotiated at speed, but a tight curve can't be so people slow down as there is risk involved. Paving is used as a directional tool says don't walk that way, but walk this way. Edging bricks say don't step over this - this is a boundary. Paving can also be used to reflect the ground plane of the house or other shapes in the garden.
Long narrow gardens have a strong directional emphasis that needs to be broken up. Square plots are static. To solve these problems the space's shape needs to be changed. A circular design distracts the eye from the straight lines of the boundary fence. You could also use a series of rectangles using the boundaries as part of the design.
Another method is to turn the garden onto a 45 degree angle. A long diagonal line will immediately create a feeling of space. The paving near the house could be done on an angle and high light the diagonal line of the entire garden.
gardens with a dog-leg in them can utilise the bend by using tension, mystery and surprise to lead you around the corner to a focal point of some kind.
Unified space is created by controlling the movement around the garden. It is the way areas are linked together by paths, bridges, pergolas, steps and terraces that determine whether a garden is successful. Careless placing can ruin the flow of the garden. If you wish to direct someone's attention to a particular point then there must be a clear reason in the design for following this pathway.
Ground levels are very important when designing a garden. If a slope is too steep to walk down safely, steps may be needed and if the entire block is on a slope, the whole area may need to be terraced. What material you use is also important. Steps should not be of slippery materials and gravel may wash away. The surfaces need to be flat otherwise they could be dangerous and people will not want to walk along them and instead they may create a desire lines.
Levels help to create interest and 'rooms' in a garden because you move from one place to another by steps/paths/etc. Allow your levels to gently flow into one another and keep them simple. Don't over decorate them. A slope up from the house will appear foreshortened whereas a slope down from the house will appear larger.
Choosing Plant Materials
There are 3 types of gardens:- the plants man, the garden designer and the gardener's (mix of the first two). The plants man gardens consist of lots of singular plantings, unconnected and often rare and difficult to source. The garden designer's garden consists of plants that are tried and tested - they use plants that they know and how they perform. The gardener's garden has learned that their favourite plants can be more effective if planted in a scheme.
When choosing plants you must consider what the conditions are of your garden. There is no point putting alkaline tolerant plants in acid soil or vise versa. It won't work! You need to think about what your plants you have chosen require moist soils, dry soils, shade, sun, well drained, boggy soils. If you do your research correctly and place your plants in the right position, you are well on the way to a successful garden.
The height and spread of your plants also needs to be considered. Tall growing plants are placed at the back of the garden bed, graduating down to the low plants. Remember some plants send up flower spikes that may be much larger than the plant itself, so they need to be positioned according to their flower spike height. Some plants are bushy so don't forget to leave sufficient room for them to spread. They may need annual pruning to keep them in check.
Colour
Another trick in the designing tool bag is using colour. Colour is the sensation of illumination which is light. The way colours inter-react with each other depends on their position in colour wheel. Manipulating colour is great fun and can create all sorts of illusions. Colours are divided into 2 groups primary red, yellow, blue and secondary green, violet, orange. Secondary colours are made of combining two primary such as mixing blue and yellow together to create green. You can make a space look cold or create distance by using pale and brown colours. You can also make a space looker bigger than it really is by using warm colours such as oranges, reds or yellows. If you want to make a space look closer to you, again use warm colours. As reds, oranges or yellow are very busy colours to the eye, it is a good idea to intersperse white flowers or grey foliage plants to calm the visual scene down. White and grey also intensify blue and pale colours.
One thing to remember about the Australia sun is that the best time to look at our gardens is in the late afternoon when the sunlight is not as strong. Our hot sun tends to fade our flowers colours and the glare at mid-day tends to wash the colour out.
If you are feeling overwhelmed about designing your garden, divide your space up and take it slowly, completing one section at a time. Don't start another part until you have finished the section you are working on and very soon you will have a beautiful garden. Remember gardens are ephemeral, it is a process that is for ever evolving. You never really finish.
Labels: Design, Garden, Garden Designing, Good Garden
Are you considering making a vegetable garden? If so, you should check into some vegetable garden plans. Garden plans inspire new, creative ideas even as they allow you to plan things out in advance before you do the "real" work of moving things around and planting and transplanting. It's always best to have a plan on paper first before you do the harder-to-correct work of actually putting things in order and planting things. Having garden plans in advance will save you time, money, and frustration.
Vegetable garden plans should be designed around factors such as personal taste, where you live geographically, and how much space you have for planting. Let's consider some garden plans that you may want to implement.
- Patio vegetable garden. Make a compact and easily tended garden on your deck or patio. Use two small soil beds and have a dense, synergistic mixture of herbs, vegetables, and flowers in each one.
- Colorful vegetable gardens. Use harmonious but contrasting colors in your choice of things you plant. These are interesting gardens. They also tend to be very healthy for you, since it's recommended that you get a "mixture of colors" in your veggies and fruits for optimal health.
- Heritage vegetable garden. Now, what's this mean? It means make it full of heirloom varieties of veggies. Again, this is diverse to the end of good health while at once being interesting and artistically inspired to create.
- The Asian vegetable garden. You might have to look online for some (or most) of the veggies you would grow in this garden. But it would yield different tastes than what you may be used to. Furthermore, Asian vegetables tend to need less space for growing than what could be found in Farmer MacGregor's garden.
- The Italian garden. We all know that the Italians make incredibly tasty food. Imagine having the tomatoes and herbs and other ingredients you need to make your own spaghetti or pizza sauce among other Mediterranean dishes.
- The All-American veggie garden. Hey, who says Americans just make hot dogs, burgers, fries, and take-out pizza? Research American veggie varieties and put together a garden that you'd be proud to "drag" a Chicago-style hot dog through.
- Autumn yield garden. What's better than still harvesting fresh produce on crisp mornings or evenings, just before the Winter sets in? Lay up your stores for the months of plant dormancy.
Tag : garden,garden plans,vegetable garden,vegetable
Do you have a garden with full of flowers in the backyard of your house? Or are you just planning to create one? If you have plans to create a water garden in your front yard then you have made an excellent decision. Garden with water attracts the interest of many. It gives a pleasing effect to your garden. Moreover, not only front yard but water garden at the backyard is enough to attract the eye-catch of your relatives and visitors.
You must be aware of the fact that there are several types of gardens you can endorse at your home. You can create even a small raised bed garden or an elegant garden with a fountain. There are varieties of water gardens and some of them include waterfalls, small fountains and ponds. And it is easy to maintain too. However, it is vital that you choose the perfect spot to install a raised garden or water garden. Some fish and plants require sunlight and so you need to make sure that you create your pond or a water garden where there is plenty of sun warmth.
Several Factors That Need to Consider
When you plan to start your water gardening there are certain things you should consider:
o Size of the Water Garden: The size of the water garden or the raised bed garden plays a great role in portraying the beauty of your raised gardens. Don't make it neither too big nor too small; just makes it proportionate to your area.
o Budget for the Water Garden: Depending upon your budget and requirements you can set your water garden with rocks, fountains, and other styles to make it look prettier. Be careful in choosing the best useful plants for your garden that suits your budget.
o Plants & Fish selection: Fish cannot alone be a beautiful attraction to your water garden they can keep the pool free from debris. There are various types of plants that you can choose, if you want the one that floats freely you can get them or you can plants that will be submerged too. Get some plants for your garden that provides oxygen, which helps to keep the pool healthy forever.
Apart from building a water garden in your area, you can also build a raised bed garden. These raised gardens enhance the look of your home and you can be comfortable working in raised beds. Building and maintaining a raised bed gardens are easy when compared to the normal gardens. These gardens not only save your time but it will ideally save your lots of money. If you don't have the adequate drainage facility then these raised bed gardens can be the ideal solution.
Raised bed garden is sufficient to offer you better soil conditions, and you can have varied soils from bed to bed. Whether you are interested in growing a vegetable garden or a flower garden, then raised gardens are your preferred choice. This type of gardens can easily drain the excess moisture. Your plants look incredible with these neatly arranged raised gardens. The raised bed gardens provide you with better yields. And the pest control is made easy in the raised gardens. In other words, these raised gardens definitely give your home and garden an appealing look just like water gardens.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Caitlina_Fuller | |
The two types of mildews attack suddenly. Powdery mildews usually appear as thin, flour-like patches of white on the surface of plants and do their damage by means of tiny sucking organs which either km or stunt the plans. They attack -about 1500 species of flowers, fruits, stems and leaves, chief among them apple, peach, grape, gooseberry, currant, cherry, grains, roses, vines of all kinds including bean, cucumber and squash. So many vines are subject to mildews that many gardeners are recognizing the value of espaliered shrubs to take their places.
Powdery mildews usually can be checked if the plants are dusted with dry sulphur or controlled with all-purpose dusts and sprays that contain rotenone, pyrethrum and copper. Fumes of boiling sulphur are also helpful. However, use no sulphur in any forra on cucumbers, melons, and squash.
Mildews that develop within the plant and thus cannot be detected as easily as the powdery type are called downy mildews. These fungus growths appear on the surface when they begin to shed their summer spores and are like soft, whitish, hairy outgrowths. Plants most frequently attacked are grape, lettuce, cabbage, spinach, onion, and alfalfa.
All-purpose sprays and dusts, Bordeaux mixtures, and other fungicides are used for downy mildews. Bordeaux is also fine for rusts. Plants badly affected with rust should be removed and burned.
The two classes of insects and bugs that damage garden plants are juice suckers and plant eaters. All-purpose sprays and dusts are used for sucking pests. Insecticides containing poisons such as arsenate of lead, rotenone, and pyrethrum, with or without copper compounds, are used on leaves of plants to combat chewing insects.
Special attention should be given undersides of leaves. Never forget that food plants sprayed or dusted with poisons should be well washed before use. Consult your nurserymaa about any of the products for pest control about which you have any doubt.
Arsenate of lead and molasses mixed with wheat bran and placed under heavy boards so children and dogs cannot eat the mixture usually trap nightworking cutworms and slugs, or prepared pellets may be used. Nematodes usually can be checked with dichloroethyl ether and copper, or specially prepared products on the market. Virus-infected plants, particularly tomatoes, should first be dusted with an all-purpose preparation, then removed and burned. Use prepared products or summer oil emulsion for mealy bugs and aphis.
If worms eat underground root vegetables, sprinkle naphthalene (mothball flakes) in two-inch trenches near roots. Cover with soil. Mothballs hung in sacks near vegetables will help keep back chickens and dogs.
Pluck off foraging insects by hand and destroy them daily. And do not forget to encourage the presence of nature's allies, the toads, frogs and birds. A single toad has been observed snapping up more than 100 green flies in one-half hour.
Toads and frogs can be encouraged in a professional capacity with daytime hiding places of rock piles in shady places, with small cement pipes under shrubs, or with small boxes placed on their sides in cool, dark corners.
Bird baths, drinking stations, suet, and other bird foods, protection from cats, boxes of nesting material, etc. will attract feathered assistants in the garden industry. Some birds will scratch out and eat flower and vegetable seeds, but this can be prevented largely by covering newly planted ground with wire screen.
Tag : garden,home garden,garden decor,garden plants
And if you'll can what's left over in your garden, you'll have enough food to last you all winter. And when you do, you cut down on the need for transportation to bring your food and help conserve fuel! Do YOUR part this year for the environment and yourself by GROWING YOUR OWN FOOD.
HOW TO MAKE A GARDEN - A FEW GENERAL TIPS
Before plowing, burn the rubbish and vegetable vines us they may carry disease or injurious insects. Apply a good coating of manure if you can get it. Tree leaves are also fine. Some gardeners say cover the seed four times its greatest diameter. Seed can be planted deeper on loose mellow soil than it can on clay or gumbo. The same seed should be planted deeper late in the season when the soil is warm and more likely to dry out. After planting very small seed, especially among the flowers, cover with a mulch to hold the moisture near the surface until the seed sprouts. Plant some for the worm, some for the crow, some to pull out, and some to grow. Plant abundantly enough for yourself and some to spare.
LOCATION OF GARDEN.
The kitchen garden should be located, close to the house. This gives protection against animals and thieves (makes it a lot handier too if you have a few odd moments to spend in it). The main or big garden should be so located and planned that it can be cultivated with regular farm tools. It saves a lot of weeding.
SOILS AND SHADE
Don't make your garden in the shade of big trees or in soils full of tree roots if you can avoid it. Most garden crops like sunshine and all of them appreciate and respond to good soil. Stony land and poorly drained soil are not the best.
FITTING THE SOIL
Plow or spade deeply in the fail, especially where there sod to be turned under. Do a good job. Leave the land rough to hold snow and moisture. Rake thoroughly before planting. Good preparation will save a lot of cultivation.
SIZE OF GARDEN
There is only one rule I would give and that is to 'Plant! Plenty." What you do not need for the day to day table needs, can.
CROP SUCCESSION
Plant radish seed very thin and follow at once with parsnip, carrot, parsley. asparagus, onion or leek right in the same row. Pull the radish and use when at is large enough. Plant Beets. Kohlrabi. Lettuce, 'Milliard, Spinach, Onion Sets. Radish or early Beans or Pens between rows of late Cabbage, Melons, Squash or Tomatoes. Plant radish very early followed by early Cabbage plants set every two feet in the row and after the cabbage is off sow late turnips or Chinese Cabbage. Plant two rows of tomatoes between each two Watermelon row and dig potatoes after the Melons are gone. Follow early Peas and Beans with late Cabbage. Celery may follow early Peas, Beans. Lettuce, Radish or Spinach. Plant late turnips in vacant about the garden. spaces.
Tag : garden,gardening,garden decor,garden plants
A Water Garden Kit Has Everything You Need For A Great Water Garden
0 comments Posted by ariya at 8/10/2009You may ask 'what are water garden kits?' Let's just say that this is like Batman's utility belt for every gardener who has a water pond. With water garden kit, the water gardener has everything he needs.
So the next question is 'what's inside a water garden kit?' Read on so you could take a peek at the water gardener's utility belt.
To enhance the attractiveness and beauty of their water garden, the kit is necessary for every gardener. Not only will human beings appreciate the view, even wildlife such as birds will come flocking your garden.
1. Some kits contain a one fountain pump that comes with a safety cord. This is for water gardeners who prefer to install their own fountains by themselves.
2. They also contain a 4-pack bird bath cleaner that thoroughly flushes out the organic residue and mineral deposits that build up in bird baths. Made from beneficial enzymes and bacteria, the water gardener's bird bath will be healthier than ever. These handy dispensers float in the bowl and continuously threat the water for 30 days. Do not worry, these dispenser will not prevent the birds from drinking and bathing on the bath. In getting this, you even provided your flying pets with clean water.
3. No water gardener wants pesticides in his garden. Destroy those pesky mosquitoes even they are in their larvae states. Mosquitoes are so irritating, plus they can be harmful to human beings and animals. Mosquito bites transmit deadly viruses both to people and pets.
Garden kits contain solutions that you can throw into standing water. In only a matter of minutes, you can observe that it dissolves and releases granules that target mosquito larvae. These pests are destroyed way before they buzz around.
4. A main concern for water gardeners is the water that seeps through the entire ecosystem. That is why they have a water garden filter system in the first place to do the job. But for maintenance, water garden kits also include pond water filters that instantly remove the chlorine and chloramines from hose water. Simply by attaching these to your hose, you can fill up your pond and not worry about chlorine getting into the marine ecosystem and creating problems for your fish.
5. You want to feed your fish the best so we recommend that you buy a nutritionally balanced pellet that is also economically productive for everyday feeding of your goldfish. Make sure that it contains crude protein and can easily be digested by your pet fish living in water temperatures ranging from 50F to 65F.
There are some special pellets that combine the high quality required amino acids, digestive enzymes and vegetable proteins. Water gardeners and koi enthusiasts turn to these kinds of pellets for assurance that their pets will be healthy,
Usually, a water garden pond kit contains pond liner, the underlayment for the pond liner, a submersible pump, a filter, pond sterilizer, tubings, fittings and nozzle. Get the easy start pond kit to help you gear up for the water garden pond that you have always wanted.
The most popular garden kits are those that have everything the water gardener needs to have an attractive water garden. From maintaining the ponds to feeding the fish, the items inside the garden kit must be of top quality.
If a pump is included in the water garden kit, make sure that it can suck the water from the pond even with the skimmer flap placed above it. The pump should also filter the water as it passes through skimmers and pushed out to the tubing.
In fact some pumps have steam effect that allows it to make greater water drops (that is if you have a fountain). The good thing about having a water garden kit is that there are accessories that can play up your creativity, especially if you have a water garden fountain in your pond.
Most of the time, water garden kits can be assembled in the sense that it is a complete package deal for those who have water garden ponds with fountains. Considering the fact that it contains most of the tools you need for your hobby.
Tag : garden,home garden,water garden,garden decor,flower garden
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To Gardeners Who Want to Grow the Mustard Plant - But Can't Get Started
0 comments Posted by ariya at 7/28/2009Mustard is best started in early spring so that the harvest is ready in the fall. They are quite small when sprouting from the seed. They then grow at a rapid rate seemingly right before your eyes. The blooms do not take long to develop and are extremely yellow. The mustard plant grows to about six feet tall. The seedpods will begin to appear right after the flowers start to fall off. Generally speaking the mustard plant is not hard to grow. The list of garden pests that infest the plant is small. In addition, they have proven to be versatile when it comes to the weather.
The seeds of the plant have been used for years as a spice. Its recorded use dates back to 3000 B.C. According to some historians and the New Testament the seed is a symbol of faith. Both the white and brown mustard seeds have no odor but do have a pungent taste. The seeds contain up to 40% vegetable oil, the enzyme myosin, and a trace of protein.
The mustard plant belongs to the genus Brassica, which the the same as turnips, cabbages and cauliflower. Canada grows approximately 90% of all mustard sold around the world. Recently studies have been made to determine if certain mustard plants can be used in the production of biodisel fuel. This is due to the high oil content found within the seeds.
Tag : garden,home garden,garden plants,garden tree
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Several makes of the Dutch-light houses are supplied with a portable concrete base which may be laid directly on to the ground and the house erected over the base, there being no need for tedious brick laying. Or the house may he erected on old railway sleepers which, like the concrete blocks, may be moved about the garden if the house is being used to cover various crops growing in the open.
The more conventional greenhouse with a brick or wooden base extending to a height of 1 feet and with glass sides extending for a further 3 feet before meeting the roof, will require less heat to maintain a temperature similar to that of a Dutch-light house and will enable a wider range of horticultural activities to he performed. Tomatoes and cucumbers may be grown at the back, planting them in deep boxes or pots and first training them in an upright direction, then to the top of the roof whilst other crops may be grown at the front of the bench, or seedlings raised for a considerable time when heated and even after turning off the heater, there will be no rapid fall in temperature as there is with air heating. The use of soil warming wires in a heated greenhouse will enable the air temperature to be reduced to a minimum whilst keeping the plants growing by gentle bottom heat. Where a hotbed cannot be made from manure, electric soil warming is a reliable substitute.
For raising seedlings and striking cuttings, a sand propagating frame may be made in a cold greenhouse by using either low voltage or mains warming cables. A wooden box is made with 9 inch boards, the base being covered with felt. Over this is placed a 2 inch layer of washed sand before laying down the warming wires which ;1 re covered with a further 3 inch layer of sand on which the seed boxes or pots are stood; or cuttings (to be rooted) may be inserted directly into the sand. $ watts per square foot of bed should be allowed, whilst a soil thermostat is necessary to control the temperature of the bed.
Tag : garden,gardening,garden decor,garden tree
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If your garden is not attacked by the pests, the gardening is easy. In fact, the gardening is not easy. There are a lot of factors that will harmful your garden. The most important factor is the pests.
The pests may be prevented by the garden cleanliness. Like the human, they will protect the illness by the healthful conditions.
You should to plan about “How to keeping the pests down?”. The earthworms will stir up the soil. This makes the soil to contact the water and air for all times. The insect is the best feed of the bird. Some insects will harmful the other insects, too. The toads are the wonderful insect hunter. They will eat a lot of small insects all day. They are the best friend of your garden.
You should try to change your garden to the attractive garden for the birds and toads. You must have the bird house, the water place and the sprinkle in your garden especially in spring. The bird will stay in your garden. In the hot summer, the toads will rest in the cool shadow in day time and they will ready to hunt in the night time. You need to help the toads by set up the suitable place for them. Putting the vary size of stones under the shade or in the cool and damp area is the good idea. The toads like in live in the dark, cool, quiet and damp area.
If we classified the insect class by the working of them, there are 2 kinds of the insects.
The first kind is the insect who gnaw at the plant. They will use the fit mouth like the grasshoppers and caterpillars.
The second kind is the insect who suck the juice from the plant like the plant lice. Their work is similar to the mosquito work. The mosquito will prey on the people. If there is a lot of this insect type on the plant, the plant will die by the sucking.
The certain insecticide is directly attacking the insects. It is sprayed on the plants. It will fall upon the insects. So they will die by the absorption of the poison into the body.
If your garden is attacked by the underground insects, the ant hills will covered your garden. This is the good idea. But you should be careful about the undesired problems.
The plant lice are the most common insect. The colors of the plant lice are red, yellow, green or brown. But most of them are green. They will suck the plant by cling close to the part of the plant. It is not too hard to find them.
The rose bushes are attacked by the rose slugs. Their characteristics are the soft bodies; the body’s color is green and yellow. They eat all the leaves of the rose.
The melons and squash leaves are damaged by the beetles. They eat the leaves by left the holes in it. The color of the beetle’s back is black with yellow stripes. The tomato worm is the common pest in the vegetable garden. It will eat the young fruits. It is the yellow and green worm.
Tag : garden,garden pests,garden decor,garden plants,home and garden
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Some of the tools that can be use is an efficient rake to pulverise the soil to make a seed bed and to make drills for seed sowing will be a necessity. It should have at least 12 teeth, preferably 14 or 16, to enable the work to be done more quickly. A series of hoes, including the Dutch type, a draw hoe and a scuffle hoe will also be an essential part of the equipment. Important, too, is a good trowel for planting and here, too, this should be of stainless steel to make for easier handling. Where working in damp soil, it will not be necessary to repeatedly clean the trowel if the blade is made of shining stainless steel. After use, wipe it clean with an oily cloth.
To use amongst plants which are growing closely together, a hand hoc will be useful. Generally known as an onion hoe, the head is 3-4 inches wide and the handle about 9 inches in length. It may also he used to thin out turnips, beetroot and other plants which may be growing close together in the rows. Wilkinson's hoe is a long-handled tool which functions in the same way. being a combination of a scuffler and a hoe.
A good tool rack is an integral part of one's kit. It should be fastened to the wall of a shed or outhouse, about 6 feet above the ground and here, the tools should always be placed at the end of the day after being cleaned and maintained in working order. There will then be no need to waste valuable time in looking for a certain tool, whilst all the tools will he kept in a clean and efficient condition.
An inexpensive tool for planting potatoes (and bulbs) is the B-B planter which is hand operated by two arms between which is a metal container to hold a potato or large bulb. The container has a sharp under-edge which allows it to be pressed into the ground, the potato or bulb being released by closing the arms together and withdrawing the implement.
No vegetable garden will be complete without a good barrow or truck which will be in constant use to move corn posts and fertilisers, harvested crops, pot plants and canes. It will save much hard work for otherwise everything must be moved by hand. An all-steel barrow is more durable though lighter to use than a wooden barrow. Fitted with a single rubber-tyred wheel and constructed of a strong tubular frame with a riveted and welded body of heavy gauge steel sheeting, the barrow has a 3 cubic feet capacity and is easily moved about the garden.
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If you love gardening, it would be great to learn the ideas, advices, and tips that will enhance your creativity in building an attractive garden. Of course aside from the Internet, books and magazines can be a great source for you. But the most recommended source would be gardening magazines, which can be very expensive when purchased. The least thing that you can do is look for sources that offer free gardening magazines. Sources may come from old book stores or shops and even on the Internet where it can be downloaded without charges.
Free gardening magazines are helpful for those who have the talent in gardening and yet cannot afford buying all those expensive magazines related to gardening. These magazines contain same ideas, advices and tips than that of the regular expensive gardening magazines.
Free gardening magazines on some Internet sites offer regular fresh updates when it comes to its articles and newsletters, which are very informative for gardeners out there. Some articles and newsletters even offer online tutorials to the subscribers. Some even provide the latest and up to dated news, plant introductions and techniques related to gardening.
Some free gardening magazines on the Internet are operated by some professionals of the garden industries. Some are even operated by regular level of gardeners who have the knowledge and plenty of solutions related to gardening. Being able an amateur or professional gardener, the magazines help enhance your gardening education as you explore and learn new techniques and plant varieties. You can also learn more about organic, herbs, roses, flower and vegetable gardening. If you are a collector of your own garden journal, the magazines can be of great help as you collect photos and articles that will help you get inspired for your gardening.
Some of the most popular online free gardening magazines are the Garden Design, Country Home Magazine, Total Landscape Care, Organic Gardening, Ideas Magazine, Weekend Gardener, Water Garden Magazine and Fine Gardening. These magazines offer one year free digital subscription as the gardener learn more on the technical aspects of the wonderful garden designing. Some just give free issues every month.
Free gardening magazines are not just available online via the Internet. They can also be borrowed from public libraries, bought from any yard sales, old book shops or scour free cycles. Public libraries are usually enriched with gardening magazines and books. It even allows borrowing of reading resources at no costs as long as the borrower lives within the area location of the library. Yard sales are also best sources of gardening magazines and books. It sometimes offers the magazines and books for some pennies or free.
Free gardening magazines are also offered in some free-trial offers by some magazine subscription where the member or subscriber can be able to enjoy at least one to three months of the privilege of subscription.
Candis Reade is an accomplished niche website developer and author.
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There are a group of what are called indoor bonsai trees. These are from warmer climates and are usually non-traditional species such as palm trees. Because they are from a warmer climate they do need to be kept indoors in most locales.
However if you are keeping traditional native bonsai trees in the US then chances are that tree needs to be outside. Most people do not realize how important it is for these trees to be wintered outside in a natural climate. For your tree to have a healthy and natural growing cycle it is critical for it to have this period of winter dormancy.
To give your plant this necessary period you will need to winter it someplace outside. The best way to accomplish this is to remove the tree from it's container and plant it in your yard.
In most native trees the roots are the part of the tree that is most sensitive to the cold. Most plants will start experiencing root damage at about 23 degrees Fahrenheit. To help avoid root damage you will need to take the plant out of its container and then bury it in the yard or garden.
If you bury the plant so that the bottom branches are just barely exposed this should help keep the roots below the frost line. You should bury it in a shaded area. During the winter days the sun can cause the plant to lose it's water and the frozen roots will not be able to replenish it.
If you do not have a yard to plant the tree in for the winter you can use a large container. A large container about the size of a vegetable crate should be sufficient.
You bury the plant in the container just like you would in the yard. And set it somewhere outside where will be exposed to natural elements. If you use a container it is very important that you monitor the soil moisture closely and do not allow it to dry out.
You can also winter your tree in an attic or garage as long as it is not heated and has windows. Be sure to place the plant where it is exposed to the light from the windows. You will still need to water the plant almost daily if you choose this method. If you plant is a conifer you will want to rotate it about once a week to so that all sides of the plant will be exposed to the sunlight.
You can prepare your tree for it's winter storage as soon as the last leaves have fallen off. At that time the plant is dormant and ready to be moved.
In the spring you can remove it from the yard and place it back in a container as soon as you see the first buds appear. If you allow your plant to winter indoors they will bud early. When they bud early the days will still be too short for proper growth and the leaves will have long gaps between them.
By: Joey Singer
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Pest control This can be approached in stages, depending on the problem. Animals (rabbits, gophers, etc.) can be kept away from food crops by surrounding the area with a wire fence with the base buried in the soil. In the flower garden, plant species they do not like to eat. Protect the stems of trees with a wire guard for the winter (make it high enough to allow for snow) and spray shrub stems with a hot pepper spray after the last rain in fall. Deer and elk are difficult to repel without enclosing the entire garden with a high fence, but there are plants that they are less likely to eat (see list on p. 68).
Large insects, such as caterpillars and beetles, can be picked off by hand and dropped into a bucket of soapy water. When larger plants, like trees, are attacked, the soil directly under their foliage can be covered with drop sheets and the plant shaken to dislodge the pests. The drop sheets can then be carefully lifted and the pests destroyed. Caterpillars that congregate in webbing "nests," like tent caterpillars and fall webworms, should be controlled during the day, when the young larvae have left the nest, by spraying them with Bacillus thuringiensis. Another alternative is to wait until evening when the caterpillars have returned to the nest. Prune off the nests and immerse them in a bucket of soapy water to kill the larvae.
Plants can be protected from damage by soil-dwelling caterpillars, like cutworms, by enclosing them in a barrier made from half a frozen juice can or a circle of heavy-grade tinfoil pushed slightly into the soil. Wireworms (orange and curl into a half circle) and millipedes (dark brown and curl into a spiral) both live in the soil and feed on plant roots or burrow into root crops. They are seldom numerous, except in reclaimed pastureland, but destroy them when digging.
Quick-moving small pests, such as flea beetles, carrot flies, and leafhoppers, can be kept away from young plants -- the most vulnerable -- by covering them with a floating row cover supported on wire hoops made from cut-down clothes hangers. This also gives protection against late frost and against sunscald on newly planted plants.
Slow-moving small pests, like aphids and mites, can be washed off many plants with a strong stream of water, however, this should not be used on plants with large, soft foliage, or on the fragile growing tips of plants. Mites can also be kept to a minimum by spraying frequently with water, using a hand sprayer, and soaking the undersides of the foliage. Planting flowers that attract native predators also helps to control aphids and mites.
Insects can be lured to bright yellow or red traps coated with a nondrying sticky substance, which holds them. There are also traps baited with scent lures called pheromones. These are scents released by insects to attract others of their species. When used in a trap, they may imitate a female scent and entice many of the males to enter. The unbalanced population results in a large reduction in the number of eggs laid, and young hatching.
Many natural predators can be used to help solve a pest problem. They can be released into the garden and will target a specific pest or range of pests (see p. 546). Naturally, it takes time for the predator population to build up sufficiently to bring the problem under control, so there is always a lag between introducing the predator and solving the problem. They rarely completely kill off all the problem pests, but they will bring the population down to acceptable levels. Remember, spraying for pest control will often wipe out the beneficial insects as well.
Nematodes are microscopic wormlike creatures, some of which attack plants, but others are beneficial and attack plant pests. They are especially useful for controlling some lawn pests and are simply mixed with water and applied with a watering can. In warmer parts of the country, one application will give several years control, but in the North, the cold kills them and they need to be reapplied if the problem occurs again.
Bacteria are also weapons in the fight against plant pests. Bacillus thuringiensis kurstaki, commonly known as BT or Dipel, was the original strain that attacks the caterpillars of certain species of moths and butterflies. There are now several other strains of this bacteria that can control Japanese beetle larvae, mosquito larvae, Colorado beetle larvae, and more. A large range of these predators and lures are available by mail or through your local nursery.
If none of the above methods control the problem to your satisfaction, you may have to resort to spraying with one of the organic controls listed on pp. 544–545.
Disease control. This is more difficult than pest control because the disease has usually got a hold on the plant before any symptoms appear. Many fungal diseases are spread by very small spores that float on the breeze and land on a plant leaf. They "germinate" and insert a small thread (called a hyphae) into the plant tissue. This feeds on the plant and grows, forming a network of hyphae between the cells inside the leaf. It is not until this point that the plant begins to show signs of stress -- different colored spots, wilting, or fungal tissue visible (as in mildew). Such leaves should be picked off as soon as noticed and put in the garbage -- not in the compost. If caught in time, this may be enough to stop the further spread of the disease.
Many plants, providing they are not under stress from poor growing conditions, can emit defensive secretions that can either kill fungal spores or limit the damage they can cause. It therefore makes sense to grow plants properly, giving them the soil conditions, acidity or alkalinity, and moisture they grow best in. In addition, allow good air circulation through plants, especially those, like phlox and bergamot, that are prone to mildew. Stagnant air in the middle of a large clump of stems is a mildew heaven.
Other fungi are great opportunists. Although they are not able to directly infect a plant, they can gain entry through stem and leaf wounds. Many cankers fall into this category. They can attack a plant only when it has been damaged by careless hoeing or gain entry through a wound caused by mower damage.
Fungi are important agents in plant decay, and most work in the gardener's favor. They help break down compost and are responsible for rotting wood in forests and returning the nutrients to the soil. Without them, the woods would be choked with dead trees. Some, such as coral spot, will also attack living material that is under stress from another cause. The appearance of small, bright coral-pink fungi on a branch indicates a problem.
Most of the fungicides listed in the chart on pp. 544–545 are preventative, rather than curative. They should be applied before the disease strikes to form a protective layer on the foliage that kills the fungal spores on contact.
Bacteria are minute organisms that can be rod-shaped, spherical, or spiral, and there are several million in a typical teaspoon of soil. They are important in breaking down dead plant material, but a few attack living plants, generally causing plant tissue to disintegrate. Soft rot of iris is a typical bacterial disease. They are difficult to control and long-lived in the soil, but generally specific to one species or group of plants. Avoid replanting the same species in soil where a bacterial disease has been diagnosed. Some bacteria attack certain insects and are used as insecticides.
Virus are submicroscopic primitive life-forms that live inside cells of plants and animals. They tend to be very specific, limiting their attack to a single genus or plant family. Some virus are used as insecticides but others attack plants. There is no cure and infected plants should be dug up and disposed of in the garbage. Infected plants usually have foliage with strange mottling or streaks, and are often puckering as well. The recently discovered virus attacking hostas is typical in this way. Plant infections can be spread by hand, shears, and other gardening tools. Newly infected plants may take several years to show symptoms, during which time the virus can be spread to other plants. Virus are also spread by sapsucking insects, such as leafhoppers, so controlling these insects is very important. Many modern varieties of vegetables, especially tomatoes, have built-in resistance to some of the virus and other diseases that attack them. This information is usually indicated by a series of code letters in seed catalogs.
Compost Tea
Homemade compost or special compost preparations available from garden suppliers are the basis of this tea. Simply put a shovelful of finished compost in a burlap sack and immerse it in a bucket of water for about a week. Strain the resulting tea through cheesecloth or some other material to remove all solids. Use the tea full-strength to water any and all plants in your garden. Compost tea not only provides a wide range of nutrients, but it also boosts plants' natural defenses against disease. Spraying plants with aerated compost tea can convey even greater benefits. To make aerated compost tea, follow the instructions that come with the compost preparations procured from a garden supplier.
Herbal Sprays
While herbal sprays do not appear to actually kill insects, they do seem to act as an effective repellent, and spraying plants with a tea made of garden herbs may help to keep them pest-free. Sage, thyme, rosemary, and white clover seem to help ward off attacks from leaf-eating caterpillars. To make, either soak 1 cup of fresh leaves overnight in 2 cups of water or pour 2 cups of boiling water over 2 cups of fresh leaves. To use, strain, dilute with an equal amount of water, and add a few drops of liquid soap (not detergent) to act as a spreader.
Stinging Nettle Spray
Stinging nettles grow as weeds in the eastern parts of the country but they can be used to make a spray that helps plants resist disease attacks.
When collecting nettles to make the spray, wear long pants, cover the arms, and wear good work gloves. Place about 1 pound of nettle leaves and young stalks in a bag and soak it in 1 gallon of chlorine-free water (tap water that has stood uncovered for 48 hours). Cover the bucket and leave it in a warm place for a week. The mixture will have a strong smell when uncovered and may need straining through a cheesecloth. Dilute with five times its volume of chlorine-free water and spray plants that are known to be susceptible to fungus diseases. Spray every 2 weeks for continued coverage. It also helps deter aphids and acts as a foliar feed. Store any unused spray concentrate in a glass jar, it will keep for a month.
Starch Spray
This forms a sticky coating on the leaf surface, which traps the pests and holds them until they die. It works best on small pests like aphids and thrips, rather than on large beetles and caterpillars. Mix 2-4 tablespoons of potato flour (available in health food stores) in one quart of water and add a few drops of liquid soap as a sticker. Shake well and spray onto the plants, covering the entire leaves. It will wash off in rain or can be hosed off after a few days.
Garlic Oil Spray
A mix of garlic, mineral oil, and soap gives very good results against many sucking and chewing insects. These include aphids, cabbageworms, leafhoppers, larval mosquitoes, squash bugs, and whiteflies.
Some plants are sensitive, so try it on a single shoot first. If there is no damage after 48 hours, spray the entire plant. Soak 3 ounces of finely chopped garlic in 2 teaspoons of mineral oil for 24 hours. Dissolve 1 teaspoon of insecticidal soap in 2 cups of water and add it to the garlic and oil. Stir well and strain. To use, add 1-2 tablespoons to 2 cups of water and spray on the pests. Store the remainder in a glass container for future use.
Hot Pepper Dust
Grow your own hot peppers to provide the source for a repellent dust that will help protect plants from cabbage maggots, carrot root flies, ants, and other pests. Dry the harvested pepper first, and then grind them with a mortar and pestle (always wear protective eye gear and gloves when working with hot peppers because the dust can be very irritating to your eyes). Sprinkle the dust along plant rows just after seeding or around the base of young plants. Apply more dust after rainfall or watering.
The above is an excerpt from the book The All-New Illustrated Guide to Gardening: Planning - Selection - Propagation - Organic Solutions by Edited by Fern Marshall Bradley and Trevor Cole. The above excerpt is a digitally scanned reproduction of text from print. Although this excerpt has been proofread, occasional errors may appear due to the scanning process. Please refer to the finished book for accuracy.
Copyright © 2009 Fern Marshall Bradley and Trevor Cole, editors of The All-New Illustrated Guide to Gardening: Planning - Selection - Propagation - Organic Solutions
Author Bio
Fern Marshall Bradley, co-editor with Trevor Cole of The All-New Illustrated Guide to Gardening, is a writer and editor whose favorite topics are gardening and sustainable living. A co-author of Reader's Digest's Vegetable Gardening, she also conceived and edited The Organic Gardener's Handbook of Insect and Disease Control, The Expert's Book of Garden Hints, among others. Bradley is a former gardening books editor for Rodale.
Trevor Cole, co-editor with Fern Marshall Bradley of The All-New Illustrated Guide to Gardening, was curator of the Dominion Arboretum in Ottawa, Canada, for over 20 years. He was educated in horticultural science at the Royal Botanical Gardens in the U.K. Cole's previous offerings include numerous magazine articles and the books Care-Free Plants and The New Ottawa Gardener.
By: Fern Marshall Bradley and Trevor Cole
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