As we begin our life journey, we tend to think that everything we see outside with our senses are real and anything else we don't see as an illusion. For this reason, since time began as we evolve, we have been told of this wonderful place called the ' Garden of Eden', the place where everything began, this place is heaven. As it is, we seek outside for this heaven, this Garden of Eden. We go to the furthest reaches of the world in search for this Garden, but we fail over and over again to finding such a paradise called the Garden of Eden.
Why?
We go outwards, just as we venture from our home only to return later in the night.
We seek for this Garden of Eden outside, but actually it is inside, at home, all the time.
We have been looking at the wrong place, it is always with us, it never left us, only that we were too blind to see and not know, because our perceptions overwhelms us to believe the external world is the only one there is.
There are two worlds for this discussion.
A world inside us that is constantly creating and a world outside of us that is the result of our creating inside, the world of the created.
A world inside and a world outside.
Everything that is created in our world, our reality is from our 'mind', inside. Other then nature to which was created before we, the humanity came into being. Other than what nature is, everything else is 'human made', human created.
The world within is a world of creating!
The world without is a world of created!
The world within IS the Garden of Eden!
The world without IS the world of the Fallen!
Lets put it this way...
The world was created perfect, called the Garden of Eden.
Then as the outer world was created, the Garden of Eden was surrounded by, in the world outside became, hence it was subject to the world outside's influence, the environmental factors like wind, insects, birds, water etc.
The wind blew, the seeds of weeds was blown into the Garden of Eden. The seeds gets hold and began to grow, the weeds. Soon the Garden no longer looks like the perfection it was, it was hidden in weeds, the Garden still exist, only hidden from view!
Someone begin to ponder and look outside but fails to find, because the weed were so long they no longer see the big picture, the Garden to which it all began, then someone decided to remove the weeds in the world outside to slowly reveal the Garden. Slowly but surely the weeds are removed and soon it was revealed and the more excited the person became, the more passionate the discovery began and soon the weeds are all gone, the Garden revealed itself and the person took rest to enjoy the Garden.
Many people stop there, to enjoy.
The journey continues, the weeds were 'pulled' out, soon, the Garden because of the rest, begin to grow again, the weeds fill the Garden again, the Gardener is left un-aware of the weed growing because the Gardener has taken holiday, only to find when the Gardener returns, the Garden of Eden was once again gone.
Because the Gardener knows where it is now, the Gardener sets to work on clearing and revealing the Garden once more, pulling out the weeds, this time more effective, shorter time required to clear the weeds to disclose the Garden of Eden... Only one thing, every time the Gardener cleans it, pulled away the weeds, the weed will grow back in a shortest time. Even though the Gardener was more effective at pulling the weed away, it still comes back. The Gardener is confused and wonder, wonder the Gardener did. The Garden wonders away from the Garden of Eden in search of a solution of the growing weed, the Gardener wants to remove the weeds once and for all without having to repeat, routinely remove the weeds and allow the Garden of Eden to remain the Garden of Eden, absence of weeds.
Confusion sets in to wonder how to clear the weeds once and for all, the weeds grow taller and taller until the Gardener can no longer find its way out of the Garden, the Gardener is totally lost and confused, frustrated at the same time. One Gardener would slash out at the weed only to grow tired and fall asleep, another would sit quietly among the weeds to wonder about the solution of the growing weeds.
One would soon return to the Garden of Eden when the Gardener awakes, the weeds were miraculously cleared and gone, it is again at the Garden of Eden, again with the passage of time, the weed began to grow away and the situation repeats itself, only that every time the Gardener awakes, he also forgets about the past, the tending to the Garden was forgotten, the Garden of Eden process is repeated over and over again...
The other Gardener who sit quietly to ponder and wonder, finally realizes that the Garden of Eden is right here all the time, the weeds grow because the 'cause' is still there, the 'seeds' of the weeds exist below the soil, blown in from the world without (external world). To solve the weed issues once and for all, all the Gardener need to do was to 'pull the weed out and remove the seed', this way, the weed will end its reign and the weed stop populating the Garden of Eden.
This was a realization that the Gardener needed, now the Gardener sets out to clear the weeds at the cause. Slowly but surely the weeds was cleared and never to return again. The Gardener now lives in the Garden of Eden, free from the weeds of the external world. The interesting thing was this, the Gardener realizes, when the Garden of Eden is maintained, the world outside changes also, it begins to mimic the Garden of Eden and soon, the world external, our reality becomes the world within, the Garden of Eden.
The Gardener realizes that, in order to change the world outside, it must first begin from the world within, from the Garden of Eden, by slowly removing all the weeds from the world within, at its cause, then and only then will have the time to appreciate all its work to live in the beautiful Garden of Eden from which it began its journey called life!
Maintaining a Garden takes time and effort.
It is your Garden of Eden, if you treasure your Garden, maintain it.
Sure there will be weeds here and there, slowly discover the roots, pull it out and 'remove' the seed below and it will slowly be cleared.
It is your Garden, you are the Gardener, tend to it, maintain it, slowly but surely, thy work be done, thy Garden of Eden be revealed with your insistence of seeing and living in your Garden of Eden. Sooner or later, with the maintenance, you will have the paradise reflected in the world without, soon heaven be here in the world without and you are in heaven, for you have found your Garden of Eden to which you live in now!
Now you know, begin to tend to your Garden of Eden today!
By the way, the Garden of Eden in 'external world' terminology, it is called 'mind'.
Tend to your mind, weed out what you don't want slowly, one at a time, remove the causes and all is revealed. How to remove it? That's another story!
Happy clearing the weeds from your Garden of Eden.
Tag : Garden,Eden
A Water Garden Kit Has Everything You Need For A Great Water Garden
0 comments Posted by ariya at 8/10/2009You may ask 'what are water garden kits?' Let's just say that this is like Batman's utility belt for every gardener who has a water pond. With water garden kit, the water gardener has everything he needs.
So the next question is 'what's inside a water garden kit?' Read on so you could take a peek at the water gardener's utility belt.
To enhance the attractiveness and beauty of their water garden, the kit is necessary for every gardener. Not only will human beings appreciate the view, even wildlife such as birds will come flocking your garden.
1. Some kits contain a one fountain pump that comes with a safety cord. This is for water gardeners who prefer to install their own fountains by themselves.
2. They also contain a 4-pack bird bath cleaner that thoroughly flushes out the organic residue and mineral deposits that build up in bird baths. Made from beneficial enzymes and bacteria, the water gardener's bird bath will be healthier than ever. These handy dispensers float in the bowl and continuously threat the water for 30 days. Do not worry, these dispenser will not prevent the birds from drinking and bathing on the bath. In getting this, you even provided your flying pets with clean water.
3. No water gardener wants pesticides in his garden. Destroy those pesky mosquitoes even they are in their larvae states. Mosquitoes are so irritating, plus they can be harmful to human beings and animals. Mosquito bites transmit deadly viruses both to people and pets.
Garden kits contain solutions that you can throw into standing water. In only a matter of minutes, you can observe that it dissolves and releases granules that target mosquito larvae. These pests are destroyed way before they buzz around.
4. A main concern for water gardeners is the water that seeps through the entire ecosystem. That is why they have a water garden filter system in the first place to do the job. But for maintenance, water garden kits also include pond water filters that instantly remove the chlorine and chloramines from hose water. Simply by attaching these to your hose, you can fill up your pond and not worry about chlorine getting into the marine ecosystem and creating problems for your fish.
5. You want to feed your fish the best so we recommend that you buy a nutritionally balanced pellet that is also economically productive for everyday feeding of your goldfish. Make sure that it contains crude protein and can easily be digested by your pet fish living in water temperatures ranging from 50F to 65F.
There are some special pellets that combine the high quality required amino acids, digestive enzymes and vegetable proteins. Water gardeners and koi enthusiasts turn to these kinds of pellets for assurance that their pets will be healthy,
Usually, a water garden pond kit contains pond liner, the underlayment for the pond liner, a submersible pump, a filter, pond sterilizer, tubings, fittings and nozzle. Get the easy start pond kit to help you gear up for the water garden pond that you have always wanted.
The most popular garden kits are those that have everything the water gardener needs to have an attractive water garden. From maintaining the ponds to feeding the fish, the items inside the garden kit must be of top quality.
If a pump is included in the water garden kit, make sure that it can suck the water from the pond even with the skimmer flap placed above it. The pump should also filter the water as it passes through skimmers and pushed out to the tubing.
In fact some pumps have steam effect that allows it to make greater water drops (that is if you have a fountain). The good thing about having a water garden kit is that there are accessories that can play up your creativity, especially if you have a water garden fountain in your pond.
Most of the time, water garden kits can be assembled in the sense that it is a complete package deal for those who have water garden ponds with fountains. Considering the fact that it contains most of the tools you need for your hobby.
Tag : garden,home garden,water garden,garden decor,flower garden
Published At: Isnare Free Articles Directory http://www.isnare.com
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If you love gardening, it would be great to learn the ideas, advices, and tips that will enhance your creativity in building an attractive garden. Of course aside from the Internet, books and magazines can be a great source for you. But the most recommended source would be gardening magazines, which can be very expensive when purchased. The least thing that you can do is look for sources that offer free gardening magazines. Sources may come from old book stores or shops and even on the Internet where it can be downloaded without charges.
Free gardening magazines are helpful for those who have the talent in gardening and yet cannot afford buying all those expensive magazines related to gardening. These magazines contain same ideas, advices and tips than that of the regular expensive gardening magazines.
Free gardening magazines on some Internet sites offer regular fresh updates when it comes to its articles and newsletters, which are very informative for gardeners out there. Some articles and newsletters even offer online tutorials to the subscribers. Some even provide the latest and up to dated news, plant introductions and techniques related to gardening.
Some free gardening magazines on the Internet are operated by some professionals of the garden industries. Some are even operated by regular level of gardeners who have the knowledge and plenty of solutions related to gardening. Being able an amateur or professional gardener, the magazines help enhance your gardening education as you explore and learn new techniques and plant varieties. You can also learn more about organic, herbs, roses, flower and vegetable gardening. If you are a collector of your own garden journal, the magazines can be of great help as you collect photos and articles that will help you get inspired for your gardening.
Some of the most popular online free gardening magazines are the Garden Design, Country Home Magazine, Total Landscape Care, Organic Gardening, Ideas Magazine, Weekend Gardener, Water Garden Magazine and Fine Gardening. These magazines offer one year free digital subscription as the gardener learn more on the technical aspects of the wonderful garden designing. Some just give free issues every month.
Free gardening magazines are not just available online via the Internet. They can also be borrowed from public libraries, bought from any yard sales, old book shops or scour free cycles. Public libraries are usually enriched with gardening magazines and books. It even allows borrowing of reading resources at no costs as long as the borrower lives within the area location of the library. Yard sales are also best sources of gardening magazines and books. It sometimes offers the magazines and books for some pennies or free.
Free gardening magazines are also offered in some free-trial offers by some magazine subscription where the member or subscriber can be able to enjoy at least one to three months of the privilege of subscription.
Candis Reade is an accomplished niche website developer and author.
To learn more about Free Gardening Magazines, please visit My Gardening Fun for current articles and discussions.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Candis_Reade
Things to keep in mind for a beautiful garden
Main principles on the garden's design
Bring the Japanese feeling into your garden with these basic steps. First of all, embrace the ideal of nature. That means, keep things in your garden as natural as possible, avoiding to include things that could disrupt this natural appearance.
For example, don't include square ponds in your design as square ponds are nowhere to be found in nature. Also, a waterfall would be something closer to what exists in nature if we compare it to a fountain. So you also have to consider the Japanese concept of sumi or balance. Because one of Japanese gardening design main purposes is to recreate large landscapes even in the smallest place. Be careful when choosing the elements for your garden, because you don't want to end up filling your ten by ten courtyard with huge rocks.
As a miniaturized landscape, the rocks in the garden would represent mountains and the ponds would represent lakes. A space filled with sand would represent an ocean. By that we assume that garden masters were looking to achieve a minimalistic approach, best represented by the phrase "less is more".
The elements of time and space
One of the things westerners notice at first are the many portions of empty space in the garden. In fact, these spaces are an important feature in Japanese gardening. This space called ma, relates to the elements around it and that also surround it. The concepts of in and yo are of vital importance here, they are best known to the Western civilization by the Chinese names yin and yang. If you want to have something you have to start with having nothing. This is an idea quite difficult to understand, but it is a rule of thumb in Japanese gardening.
An important clue in the development of a garden is the concept of wabi and sabi. There's no literal English translation for those words. Wabi is about uniqueness, or the essence of something; a close literal translation is solitary. Sabi deals with the definition of time or the ideal image of something; the closest definition might be time strenghtened character. Given the case, a cement lantern that might appear unique, would lack of that ideal image. Or an old rock covered in lichens would have no wabi if it's just a round boulder. That's why it is important to find that balance.
Ma and wabi/sabi are connected to the concepts of space and time. When it comes to seasons, the garden must show the special character of each one. Japanese garden lovers dedicate time to their gardens every season, unlike the western gardener who deserts in fall just to be seen again in spring.
A very relaxing view in spring is given by the bright green of new buds and the blossoms of the azaleas. In summer, the lush foliage in combination with the pond offer a powerful and fresh image. The vivid spectacle of the brilliant colors of dying leaves in fall are a prelude for the arrival of winter and its white shroud of snow.
The two most important gardening seasons in Japan are spring and winter. Japanese refer to the snow accumulated on braches as Sekku or snow blossoms. Yukimi, or the snow viewing lantern, is another typical element of the Japanese garden in winter. The sleep of the garden in winter is an important episode for our Japanese gardener, while for the western gardener spring is the beginning of the work at the garden. Maybe because of the eastern point of view as death like part of the life cycle, or perhaps the western fear to death.
About garden enclosures
Let's see the garden as a microcosm of nature. If we're looking for the garden to be a true retreat, we have to 'set it apart' from the outside world. Because of that, fences and gates are important components of the Japanese garden.
The fence and the gates have both symbolism and functionality. The worries and concerns of our daily life have to stay out of this separate world that becomes the garden. The fence protects us from the outside world and the gate is the threshold where we leave our daily worries and then prepare ourselves to confront the real world again.
The use of fences is based in the concept of hide/reveal or Miegakure. Fence styles are very simple and are put in combination with screen planting, thus not giving many clues of what hides inside. You can give a sample look of your garden by cutting a small window in the solid wall that encloses your garden if that's the case. Sode-gaki, or sleeve fences, are fences attached to an architectural structure, that will only show a specific view of the garden from inside the house. Thus, we're invited to get into the garden and enjoy it in its entirety. That's what makes the true understanding of the garden, to lose in it our sense of time and self.
Basic Arrangements
Despite the fact that certain rules are applied to each individual garden, don't think that there's just one type of garden. There are three basic styles that differ by setting and purpose.
Hill and Pond Garden (Chisen-Kaiyu-skiki)
A China imported classic style. A pond or a space filled with raked gravel fronts a hill (or hills). This style always represents mountainous places and commonly makes use of vegetation indigenous to the mountains. Stroll gardens commonly use this style.
Flat Garden (Hiraniwa)
It derives from the use of open, flat spaces in front of temples and palaces for ceremonies. This is an appropriate style for contemplation and that represents a seashore area (with the use of the right plants). This is a style frequently used in courtyards.
Tea Gardens (Rojiniwa)
Function has a greater importance than form in this type of garden. The Roji or dewy path, is the main point of the garden, along with the pond and the gates. This would be the exception to the rule. The simple and sparse plantings give a rustic feeling to the garden.
Formality has to be taken in consideration
Hill and pond and flat styles may be shin (formal), gyo (intermediate) or so (informal). Formal styles were to be found usually at temples or palaces, intermediate styles were suitable for most residences, and the informal style was used in peasant huts and mountain retreats. The tea garden is the one that always fits in the informal style.
The garden components
Rocks (ishi in Japanese) are the main concern of the Japanese garden. If the stones are placed correctly, then the garden shows in a perfect balance. So here are shown the basic stone types and the rules for their positions.
The basic stones are the tall upright stone, the low upright stone, the curved stone, the reclining stone, and the horizontal stone. These must be usually set in triads although this doesn't happen always. Two almost identical stones (by way of example, two tall verticals or two reclining stones), one a little quite smaller than the other, can be set together as male and female, but the use of them in threes, fives, and sevens is more frequent.
We have to keep away from the Three Bad Stones. These are the Diseased stone (having a withered or misshapen top), the Dead stone (an obviously vertical one used as a horizontal, or vice versa, like the placement of a dead body), and the Pauper Stone (a stone having no connection to the several other ones in the garden). Use only one stone of each of the basic types in any cluster (the rest have to be smaller, modest stones also known as throwaway stones). Stones can be placed as sculptures, set against a background in a two-dimensional way, or given a purpose, such as a stepping stone or a bridge.
When used as stepping stones they should be between one and three inches above the soil, yet solid underfoot, as if rooted into the ground. They can be put in straight lines, offset for left foot, right foot (referred as chidori or plover, after the tracks the shore bird leaves), or set in sets of twos, threes, fours, or fives (and any combination thereof).
The pathway stands for the passage through life, and even particular stones by the path may have meaning. A much wider stone placed across the path tells us to put two feet here, stopping to enjoy the view. There are numerous stones for specific places. When observing the basic design principles, we can notice the exact character of the Japanese garden.
Water (mizu in Japanese) plays an important part in the composition of the Japanese garden because of Japan's abundant rainfall. Water can be represented even with a raked gravel area instead of water. A rushing stream can be represented by placing flat river stones closely together. In the tea garden, where there isn't any stream or pond, water plays the most important role in the ritual cleansing at the chozubachi, or water basin. As the water fills and empties from the shishi-odoki, or deer scare, the clack of bamboo on rock helps mark the passage of time.
The flow of water, the way it sounds and looks, brings to mind the continual passage of time. A bridge crossing the water stream is often used as a landscaping complement. Bridges denote a journey, just as pathways do. Hashi, in japanese, can mean bridge or edge. Bridges are the symbolic pass from one world into another, a constant theme in Japanese art.
Plants or Shokobutsu may play a secondary role to the stones in the garden, but they are a primary concern in the design too. Stones represent what remains unchanged, so trees, shrubs, and perennials have to represent the passing of seasons. Earlier garden styles used plants to make up poetic connotations or to correct geomantic issues, but these have little meaning today.
As the the Heian style diminished under the Zen influence, perennials and grasses fell out of use. So, for a long time, there were only a few plants that tradition allowed for the garden. However, in modern Japan, designers are again widening the spectrum of materials used. It is highly recommended that native plants are chosen for the garden, because showy exotic plants are not in good taste. Be aware that native plants are used in the garden, because it is in bad taste to use showy exotic plants. Although pines, cherries and bamboo immediatly remind us of Japanese gardens, we encourage you to use native plants of your locality that you can find pleasing. If we choose evergreens as the main plant theme and combine it with deciduous material that may provide seasonal blooms or foliage color we can recreate the look of the Japanese garden.
Now the next thing taken in consideration in a Japanese garden are the ornaments or Tenkebutsu. Stone lanterns are, for westerners, a typical impression of Japanese gardens.Stone lanterns are not important components of the Japanese garden. The reason is that ornaments are subjected to the garden's design. Lanterns, stupas, and basins are just architectural complements added when a point of visual interest is necessary to the design.
A good way to finish yor garden design could be a well-placed lantern. The three main styles (although with many variations) are: The Kasuga style lantern, is a very formal one featuring a stone base. In the Oribe style lantern, unlike the Kasuga style, the pedestal is underneath the ground. The Yukimi or Snow-Viewing lantern is set on short legs instead of a pedestal. Consider the formality of your garden setting to choose the appropiate lantern.
When possible, elements from outside the garden can be included in it. For instance, you can work a far away mountain including the scenery in your design, framing it with the stones and plants existing in the garden.
The borrowed scenery (shakkei in Japanese) can be: Far (as in a far away mountain); near (a tree just outside the fence); High (an element seen above the fence) or low (like a component seen below a fence or through a window in the fence).
As much as it is perceived to contradict our sense of enclosure, it reminds us of how all things are interconnected.
The feel of your garden
The Japanese garden is a subtle place full of contradictions and imperatives. Where firmly established rules are broken with other rules. If you meet the Buddha on the road, you must kill him is a Zen paradox that recommends not to stick so tightly to rules, and the same goes for Japanese gardens.
When building a Japanese garden, don't get too attached to traditions that hold little meaning for you. It would have no function to recreate a Buddhist saints garden. This also applies to trying to remember the meaning of stone placements, as this method is no longer used in Japan, or even in the United States, due to the lack of meaning for us in the modern world.
That's why we have selected a few gardening suggestions that do hold relevance and integrate them into a garden. These three ideas on gardening will give direction to achieve perfect results.
First
The overall setting of the garden should always be right for the location, not the other way around.
Second
The stones should be placed first, next the trees, and then the shrubs.
Third
Get used to the concepts of shin, gyo, and so. This is of great help to start working on the garden.
Have in mind that the real Japanese garden are the traditional ones in Japan. What we can do in America is to shape a garden in the Japanese style. Rikyu once said about the perfect Roji: "Thick green moss, all pure and sunny warm". In other words, techniques are not as important as the feeling you evoke in your garden. Said in other way, the feeling is more important than techniques.
Tag : garden,Japanese garden,gardening,Japan
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Things to keep in mind for a beautiful garden
Main principles on the garden's design
Bring the Japanese feeling into your garden with these basic steps. First of all, embrace the ideal of nature. That means, keep things in your garden as natural as possible, avoiding to include things that could disrupt this natural appearance.
For example, don't include square ponds in your design as square ponds are nowhere to be found in nature. Also, a waterfall would be something closer to what exists in nature if we compare it to a fountain. So you also have to consider the Japanese concept of sumi or balance. Because one of Japanese gardening design main purposes is to recreate large landscapes even in the smallest place. Be careful when choosing the elements for your garden, because you don't want to end up filling your ten by ten courtyard with huge rocks.
As a miniaturized landscape, the rocks in the garden would represent mountains and the ponds would represent lakes. A space filled with sand would represent an ocean. By that we assume that garden masters were looking to achieve a minimalistic approach, best represented by the phrase "less is more".
The elements of time and space
One of the things westerners notice at first are the many portions of empty space in the garden. In fact, these spaces are an important feature in Japanese gardening. This space called ma, relates to the elements around it and that also surround it. The concepts of in and yo are of vital importance here, they are best known to the Western civilization by the Chinese names yin and yang. If you want to have something you have to start with having nothing. This is an idea quite difficult to understand, but it is a rule of thumb in Japanese gardening.
An important clue in the development of a garden is the concept of wabi and sabi. There's no literal English translation for those words. Wabi is about uniqueness, or the essence of something; a close literal translation is solitary. Sabi deals with the definition of time or the ideal image of something; the closest definition might be time strenghtened character. Given the case, a cement lantern that might appear unique, would lack of that ideal image. Or an old rock covered in lichens would have no wabi if it's just a round boulder. That's why it is important to find that balance.
Ma and wabi/sabi are connected to the concepts of space and time. When it comes to seasons, the garden must show the special character of each one. Japanese garden lovers dedicate time to their gardens every season, unlike the western gardener who deserts in fall just to be seen again in spring.
A very relaxing view in spring is given by the bright green of new buds and the blossoms of the azaleas. In summer, the lush foliage in combination with the pond offer a powerful and fresh image. The vivid spectacle of the brilliant colors of dying leaves in fall are a prelude for the arrival of winter and its white shroud of snow.
The two most important gardening seasons in Japan are spring and winter. Japanese refer to the snow accumulated on braches as Sekku or snow blossoms. Yukimi, or the snow viewing lantern, is another typical element of the Japanese garden in winter. The sleep of the garden in winter is an important episode for our Japanese gardener, while for the western gardener spring is the beginning of the work at the garden. Maybe because of the eastern point of view as death like part of the life cycle, or perhaps the western fear to death.
About garden enclosures
Let's see the garden as a microcosm of nature. If we're looking for the garden to be a true retreat, we have to 'set it apart' from the outside world. Because of that, fences and gates are important components of the Japanese garden.
The fence and the gates have both symbolism and functionality. The worries and concerns of our daily life have to stay out of this separate world that becomes the garden. The fence protects us from the outside world and the gate is the threshold where we leave our daily worries and then prepare ourselves to confront the real world again.
The use of fences is based in the concept of hide/reveal or Miegakure. Fence styles are very simple and are put in combination with screen planting, thus not giving many clues of what hides inside. You can give a sample look of your garden by cutting a small window in the solid wall that encloses your garden if that's the case. Sode-gaki, or sleeve fences, are fences attached to an architectural structure, that will only show a specific view of the garden from inside the house. Thus, we're invited to get into the garden and enjoy it in its entirety. That's what makes the true understanding of the garden, to lose in it our sense of time and self.
Basic Arrangements
Despite the fact that certain rules are applied to each individual garden, don't think that there's just one type of garden. There are three basic styles that differ by setting and purpose.
Hill and Pond Garden (Chisen-Kaiyu-skiki)
A China imported classic style. A pond or a space filled with raked gravel fronts a hill (or hills). This style always represents mountainous places and commonly makes use of vegetation indigenous to the mountains. Stroll gardens commonly use this style.
Flat Garden (Hiraniwa)
It derives from the use of open, flat spaces in front of temples and palaces for ceremonies. This is an appropriate style for contemplation and that represents a seashore area (with the use of the right plants). This is a style frequently used in courtyards.
Tea Gardens (Rojiniwa)
Function has a greater importance than form in this type of garden. The Roji or dewy path, is the main point of the garden, along with the pond and the gates. This would be the exception to the rule. The simple and sparse plantings give a rustic feeling to the garden.
Formality has to be taken in consideration
Hill and pond and flat styles may be shin (formal), gyo (intermediate) or so (informal). Formal styles were to be found usually at temples or palaces, intermediate styles were suitable for most residences, and the informal style was used in peasant huts and mountain retreats. The tea garden is the one that always fits in the informal style.
The garden components
Rocks (ishi in Japanese) are the main concern of the Japanese garden. If the stones are placed correctly, then the garden shows in a perfect balance. So here are shown the basic stone types and the rules for their positions.
The basic stones are the tall upright stone, the low upright stone, the curved stone, the reclining stone, and the horizontal stone. These must be usually set in triads although this doesn't happen always. Two almost identical stones (by way of example, two tall verticals or two reclining stones), one a little quite smaller than the other, can be set together as male and female, but the use of them in threes, fives, and sevens is more frequent.
We have to keep away from the Three Bad Stones. These are the Diseased stone (having a withered or misshapen top), the Dead stone (an obviously vertical one used as a horizontal, or vice versa, like the placement of a dead body), and the Pauper Stone (a stone having no connection to the several other ones in the garden). Use only one stone of each of the basic types in any cluster (the rest have to be smaller, modest stones also known as throwaway stones). Stones can be placed as sculptures, set against a background in a two-dimensional way, or given a purpose, such as a stepping stone or a bridge.
When used as stepping stones they should be between one and three inches above the soil, yet solid underfoot, as if rooted into the ground. They can be put in straight lines, offset for left foot, right foot (referred as chidori or plover, after the tracks the shore bird leaves), or set in sets of twos, threes, fours, or fives (and any combination thereof).
The pathway stands for the passage through life, and even particular stones by the path may have meaning. A much wider stone placed across the path tells us to put two feet here, stopping to enjoy the view. There are numerous stones for specific places. When observing the basic design principles, we can notice the exact character of the Japanese garden.
Water (mizu in Japanese) plays an important part in the composition of the Japanese garden because of Japan's abundant rainfall. Water can be represented even with a raked gravel area instead of water. A rushing stream can be represented by placing flat river stones closely together. In the tea garden, where there isn't any stream or pond, water plays the most important role in the ritual cleansing at the chozubachi, or water basin. As the water fills and empties from the shishi-odoki, or deer scare, the clack of bamboo on rock helps mark the passage of time.
The flow of water, the way it sounds and looks, brings to mind the continual passage of time. A bridge crossing the water stream is often used as a landscaping complement. Bridges denote a journey, just as pathways do. Hashi, in japanese, can mean bridge or edge. Bridges are the symbolic pass from one world into another, a constant theme in Japanese art.
Plants or Shokobutsu may play a secondary role to the stones in the garden, but they are a primary concern in the design too. Stones represent what remains unchanged, so trees, shrubs, and perennials have to represent the passing of seasons. Earlier garden styles used plants to make up poetic connotations or to correct geomantic issues, but these have little meaning today.
As the the Heian style diminished under the Zen influence, perennials and grasses fell out of use. So, for a long time, there were only a few plants that tradition allowed for the garden. However, in modern Japan, designers are again widening the spectrum of materials used. It is highly recommended that native plants are chosen for the garden, because showy exotic plants are not in good taste. Be aware that native plants are used in the garden, because it is in bad taste to use showy exotic plants. Although pines, cherries and bamboo immediatly remind us of Japanese gardens, we encourage you to use native plants of your locality that you can find pleasing. If we choose evergreens as the main plant theme and combine it with deciduous material that may provide seasonal blooms or foliage color we can recreate the look of the Japanese garden.
Now the next thing taken in consideration in a Japanese garden are the ornaments or Tenkebutsu. Stone lanterns are, for westerners, a typical impression of Japanese gardens.Stone lanterns are not important components of the Japanese garden. The reason is that ornaments are subjected to the garden's design. Lanterns, stupas, and basins are just architectural complements added when a point of visual interest is necessary to the design.
A good way to finish yor garden design could be a well-placed lantern. The three main styles (although with many variations) are: The Kasuga style lantern, is a very formal one featuring a stone base. In the Oribe style lantern, unlike the Kasuga style, the pedestal is underneath the ground. The Yukimi or Snow-Viewing lantern is set on short legs instead of a pedestal. Consider the formality of your garden setting to choose the appropiate lantern.
When possible, elements from outside the garden can be included in it. For instance, you can work a far away mountain including the scenery in your design, framing it with the stones and plants existing in the garden.
The borrowed scenery (shakkei in Japanese) can be: Far (as in a far away mountain); near (a tree just outside the fence); High (an element seen above the fence) or low (like a component seen below a fence or through a window in the fence).
As much as it is perceived to contradict our sense of enclosure, it reminds us of how all things are interconnected.
The feel of your garden
The Japanese garden is a subtle place full of contradictions and imperatives. Where firmly established rules are broken with other rules. If you meet the Buddha on the road, you must kill him is a Zen paradox that recommends not to stick so tightly to rules, and the same goes for Japanese gardens.
When building a Japanese garden, don't get too attached to traditions that hold little meaning for you. It would have no function to recreate a Buddhist saints garden. This also applies to trying to remember the meaning of stone placements, as this method is no longer used in Japan, or even in the United States, due to the lack of meaning for us in the modern world.
That's why we have selected a few gardening suggestions that do hold relevance and integrate them into a garden. These three ideas on gardening will give direction to achieve perfect results.
First
The overall setting of the garden should always be right for the location, not the other way around.
Second
The stones should be placed first, next the trees, and then the shrubs.
Third
Get used to the concepts of shin, gyo, and so. This is of great help to start working on the garden.
Have in mind that the real Japanese gardens are the traditional ones in Japan. What we can do in America is to shape a garden in the Japanese style. Rikyu once said about the perfect Roji: "Thick green moss, all pure and sunny warm". In other words, techniques are not as important as the feeling you evoke in your garden. Said in other way, the feeling is more important than techniques.
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For any gardener who enjoys working with their plants, a greenhouse is a welcome addition to expand their hobby. Greenhouse gardening can be as intensive or as low-key as you want it to be, depending on how much gardening you do and how much money you want to invest in the hobby. Serious gardeners wishing to expand their interest into greenhouse gardening may opt for a permanent structure in their backyard, possibly something that incorporates a cement foundation, integrated doors and windows, and an auto-venting system for temperature control. On the other end of the spectrum, we have the beginning gardener or hobby horticulturist who wishes to cultivate plants indoors during the winter months or start seeds indoors in the spring for a head start on the summer growing season. This more basic form of greenhouse gardening will be our focus for this article.
Basic greenhouse gardening usually begins indoors with a temporary structure that can be set up when it's needed and taken down when it's not. An inexpensive shelving kit will work well for this purpose, provided you have space to set it up. Other structures could be a tabletop that's not in use or an old workbench. If you are purchasing something new for the purpose of indoor gardening, look for a structure that's lightweight and that can be easily disassembled for storage. Consider buying plastic, if you have the option, so that you can easily wipe away any dirt or water that accumulates.
Next, you'll need to look around your home and determine where the shelf or table will be placed. If you have a sunny window that receives at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily, this is ideal. Warm, sunny bay windows facing the west or south will usually meet the criteria. If you don't have such a window, then you'll need to consider using a grow light. This will require a special light bulb that gives off a full spectrum of light similar to the sun's rays. While the light cast from these bulbs certainly won't look like natural sunlight to your eyes, to the plants, it is virtually the same. Grow lights can usually be purchased quite inexpensively from home improvement stores or garden centers, and can then be screwed into your own light fixture at home.
When setting up a grow light, it's important to suspend the light as close as possible to the plants. Particularly if you are using the light to start seeds, you'll want to place the light within an inch or two of the seedlings themselves. If you place the light too far away, the seedlings will grow tall and spindly instead of strong and stocky.
An indoor greenhouse can feature a vinyl cover to help retain heat or moisture, or you can simply use the indoor environment of your home as the greenhouse environment. Ideal temperatures will range from 75 to 85 degrees, so choose a room of your house that is warmer than others. If you're using a grow light instead of a sunny window, you won't be as limited to the possible locations you can choose from your plants. If you're using a grow light and trying to determine a warm location in your house, consider an upstairs room and/or a high up location in the room, vertically speaking, such as on top of a high shelf or a tall cabinet. Heat rises, so the highest place in your home should also be the one with the highest temperature.
If you're a beginning gardener interested in greenhouse gardening, don't be intimidated to give it a try. Getting started indoors is easy and doesn't cost a lot of money. With a little time and a minimal investment, you can expand your gardening hobby, grow more plants, and give your green thumb a workout during cooler months!
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Lawn, Garden Soil Test Kit Helps Backyard Gardeners Grow Lush And Healthy Plants
0 comments Posted by ariya at 4/15/2009Some backyard gardeners are not that lucky. Their plants don't even manage to take root. No, it's not always the equipment or the gardener at fault. It may be the soil you use to grow your plants. A laboratory test that checks your soil for a number of factors could provide the answers to the problems that you face as an a backyard gardener..
The key to good gardening is to understand how crucial it is to maintain a balance of nutrients and other elements in the soil. Its a job that most professional gardeners and landscapers are trained to do. For your plants to grow and thrive, the soil requires successful chemical balance. This is not something that only professionals do; it's for everyone who wants a great garden.
Proper nutrients are essential for all farmers to produce crops that not only grow, but thrive. If you get a laboratory test that gives you the direction you need to improve your substrate, things will get easier. As a result the cost of your pesticides and fertilizers will decrease to a great extent. Well nourished plants tend to have their own natural defense of pests.
The advantage of testing the soil before planting is that it gives you the prior warning you need to remedy a situation even before you sow the seeds. Only proper tests from a reputed lab can tell you if your substrate is suitable for planting or if it is lacking in nutrients or contains pathogens.
The professionals from testing labs give you a proper insight into the condition of your substrate. You will learn how acidic it is and whether it needs treatment to remedy an unsuitable pH. All plants need a good pH balance to grow and thrive. You can also determine the amount of organic matter in your substrate.
Although there are a lot of self tests that growers can purchase off the shelf, they can be quite time consuming and are not usually recommended. These tests will analyze your soil for essential nutrients such as potassium, nitrogen, and phosphorous and also test the pH levels of the substrate.
However, these self tests can prove ineffective and do not help to solve the as issues that arise when the results finally become available. For many growers, the results of these tests may be difficult to read or comprehend. All these factors make lab testing a more viable option.
Of course, lab testing does not always come cheap and you should be prepared to pay a bit more than you would for a self testing kit. In the long run its worth it, because the goal is not just to check the health of your soil. What you want is to conduct an accurate test that helps you reach optimum efficiency. You don't need to burn a hole in your pocket buying fertilizers and pesticides if the quality of the soil is good.
The best thing a lab test gives is a lot more information about your sample. Besides the results that your self test kit gives you, a lab test will also provide data about the micro-nutrient content, the percentage of organic matter, and other contamination that could harm your plants. You also access to have tests that can check for the presence of heavy metals in the sample.
Always consult a laboratory that is well known for providing reliable results and lawn, garden soil test kit services. Such labs will provide you with follow-up advice to improve the condition of your substrate. They should also be able to advise you on factors like improving the organic matter content, fertilizers best suited to your substrate, management techniques that will help improve quality, addition of materials before planting or cover crop requirements.
Soil testing can help you create and maintain a beautiful garden with healthy plants that grow and thrive without too much effort.
By: Andrew Stratton
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Making a great organic fertilizer is no farther than your kitchen, bathroom and bedroom. To make compost tea you'll need: an old pair of pantyhose, a kitty litter bucket and some compost.
How is it made, you ask? Compost tea is made like any other tea and that's where the pantyhose comes in. Compost is made by collecting kitchen scraps and other garden clippings, putting them in a compost container and letting heat and water break the material down into a highly nutritious form.
Kitchen scarps are the key to great compost starter? By composting kitchen scraps in a compost bucket. First, let me warn you that you do not want to use any meat or fat in your compost bucket. And this system works most frugally if you have a cat. But don't worry. Cats and kitty litter go hand in hand but you don't have to have a cat to use the bucket.
I have two 14 year-old gray tabbies at home. I like using kitty litter that comes in a bucket with a secure lid. Tidy Cat makes a nice one. You can do whatever you want with the kitty litter: you can use it yourself in your own kitty box, put it in a re-sealable bag and store it in the trunk of your car for an icy day, or you can give it away to a friend who has a kitty. Any one of them will do. You just want the bucket.
Rinse your new composting bucket out really well with soap and water and dry it. Now you're ready to start composting. Whenever you have leftovers that aren't meat or fat, throw them in the compost bucket. This can be ends of bread, vegetable peels, eggshells or left over pasta.
And, because the compost bucket that you've selected has a secure lid, you shouldn't smell any odor coming from it.
Now, there are lots of companies out there that will be happy to sell you a very expensive, very cute kitchen compost bucket. Don't buy it. The kitty litter bucket works much better and it's bigger so it will hold more. And you're getting a TFG (The Frugal Gardener) two-fer: the kitty litter can be used by your favorite feline and you get a durable compost bucket.
Collect compost for as long as you want. I usually don't empty my compost bucket for a few weeks. Just make sure it isn't too heavy for you to lift. The next step on your way to gardening organically is a compost pile.
Compost piles come in all shapes and sizes and, yes, you can buy some very expensive containers, too. One of the best compost piles I ever had was in that first garden in New Jersey when all I did was take my compost and dump it in the dirt. I turned it over every time I had a new load of kitchen waste and I grew a great organic garden in that space.
It's true, you do need to have space for this kind of composting. This will not work if you live in an apartment. But I have a solution to not having a compost pile.
What is it? Move! No, just kidding.
You can buy some commercially prepared compost (not the most frugal thing, I'll admit) or you can ask one of your gardening buddies if they have a compost pile you can contribute to in exchange for some compost. If you have your own compost pile, you can choose to enclose it with any number of things: chicken wire, hay bales, or you can build a wooden compost container.
A compost tumbler lets me rotate my compost without digging through the pile. It also allows heat to build up in the container, which is a critical element in breaking down the kitchen scraps and garden refuse into a beautiful, black soil-like consistency.
These tumblers are available from places like Gardener's Supply Company. All right. We've collected scraps for compost, we've taken them in our compost bucket to the compost pile, and now we have fresh compost (it takes about two weeks in the sun for compost to appear). Here's where the pantyhose come in.
Tie off the leg at the end -- especially is there's a hole or a run. You want to have as solid a leg of pantyhose as possible.
Put a good amount of compost in one leg of the old pantyhose making sure that you have knotted it at the lower end so that it doesn't fall out onto the ground. Don't laugh -- I did that once. I don't know what I was thinking, I may have even been talking to a gardening friend at the time, but I was happily loading compost into my pantyhose leg to find that it had deposited itself back on the ground.
Fortunately, it was in an area of the garden that needed a bit of compost anyway. Once you have a leg-full, close up the top end, take your compost bucket from the kitchen, rinse it out, and fill it with water.
Place your leg full of compost in the water and let it steep. For the best effect, do this in full sun. Let the compost bucket sit there for two to three days. In the end, you'll have some water that looks like strong tea. And you'll be ready for an organic garden.
Not only does the tea provide nutrients to the plants, it makes them strong enough to resist many pests and diseases. Pour your compost tea into a watering can and water all of your plants and vegetables with it.
Now you're growing organically! Compost is also good for organic gardens in the non-tea form as an additive to your garden soil. Whenever I'm planting a new container or creating a new raised bed, I make sure to mix in some compost for great nutrients and vitamins.
About the Author
Victoria Rosendahl has been getting her nails dirty in the garden since she was 10. For more garden tips, including information about GardenRack, the custom raised bed gardening system, visit http://www.squidoo.com/gardenrack
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Garden Environmental Sensors
These products promise to take the guess work out of gardening. A sensor placed in the ground near your plants proceeds to analyze the soil and growing conditions, and providing results such as the amount of moisture in the soil, sunlight, temperature, humidity and drainage. Hook up the sensor to your computer using a USB port and receive a list of recommendations to enhance your garden and create ideal growing conditions. Many of these products such as EasyBloom, have huge product databases that you can search by various plant characteristics, such as desired bloom, color, season, plant height, and drought tolerance.
With the press of a button, the home gardener can receive the type of growing advice they might expect from their local botanist for the mere cost of $60. A more complex version, the Botanicalls runs for $100 and will send text alerts to your phone whenever your plants are in distress or getting thirsty.
Irrigation & Watering Systems
Watering the garden is probably my biggest challenge. I begin the season with the best of intentions, but by mid summer, if I've missed a few days the hot weather takes its toll on my plants. The weaker strains inevitably die and the others remain in a limp, "just kill me and get it over with", sort of state. My neighbor, however, who I teased for installing a watering system, has gorgeous blooms on thriving plants right through to late fall.
There are a myriad of drip irrigation and watering systems available on the market to automate this task. Some are as simple as planting round clay containers next your plants, attached to larger water-filled vessels. Others involve small lines hooked up to your hose and running to your gardens or hanging plants. Whether manual or automated, the function of these systems are basically the same – they both deliver water to your plants, gradually, via an underground delivery system so as to avoid as little evaporation as possible.
Running from about $50 to 150 a digital timer will start watering exactly when you specify. For about $600 a digital monitor will connect wirelessly with nearby weather stations or garden sensors and measure temperature, solar radiation, wind speeds and humidity. Take it one step further and connect to an alarm that will alert you when it's time to cover your delicate plants or when soil is getting dry.
Auto Mowers
The Robomower from LawnBott eliminates the need to ever push or ride a mower again. After installing a perimeter wire around your yard (to keep your mower within your property), assemble your Robomower, pour a cool drink and watch it tirelessly mow up to 4,000 square feet of lawn. The unit is not totally maintenance free, as it will occasionally get stuck in ruts or holes, or require some simple programming. They make the climb up steep hills, run for four hours at a time and the solar-electric hybrid version uses the energy of a lightbulb.
If you're sick of pushing a mower and paying for the gas to run it, the Robomower has models ranging from $1,000 to $3,500.
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Discover the great investment opportunities available in the Wilmington NC real estate market. Search the latest property listings to find Hampstead homes, waterfront real estate, vacant lots, condos and more at BuddyBlake.com.
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Fall Garden Planning - Garden Plans For Next Spring And Ordering By Mail
0 comments Posted by ariya at 4/19/2009It's August, the weather has cooled a bit here and the summer monsoons where I live in New Mexico have begun. The kids are starting back to school and I feel the onset of fall. I'm getting that garden planning itch again! It happens 2-3 times a year... This time, it's time to start ordering bulbs and perennials for fall planting. I'm always planning how my garden will look better next season and I suppose most of you do the same. Fall is the perfect time to plant for established growth next spring!
Take a good look at your garden now and think about areas you need to fill in. Do you need late season color, early spring blooms? Are there bare spots or places where plants like poppies or tulips go dormant and you need a filler to keep your garden alive with color? I find the best time for next years planning is in the fall when bloom time and plant combinations are fresh in my mind.
You may be disappointed with a plant combination you chose last season. Fall is the perfect time to rearrange. Get rid of overgrown plants and revive areas with new color or foliage combinations. Think about areas in your bulb or perennial garden you want to develop. What size, shape and bloom color do you need? Plant them this fall and watch your pans come to fruition come spring.
Shrubs and trees do take years to mature and fill their place. You can get a jump start by planting them this fall. When spring arrives they'll be much more hardy and will require less babying.
Fall is the perfect time to mail order bulbs, perrenials, shrubs, hedges and trees. We're winding down the season and if you're anything like me you're just not ready to quit quite yet. Sure there's clean up to be done, but I find more planting helps to finish those mundane cxhores. As I clean out I plant new!
Ordering online or by mail
Ordering plants online can be a bit scary. How are the plants shipped? Will they be good quality? Will they arrive at the right time and will I be prepared to plant them then?
Fear not! I've ordered in fall for years and have had tremendous results!
Plant Quality and Guarantees
Nurseries do differ in what and how they ship so make sure you do some research, but almost all reputable mail order nurseries do guarantee their plants to grow or your money back. I've never had trouble collecting on that promise and I have used it a time or two for certain plants. I also admit, a bit grudgingly as a then new gardener, that I should never have ordered those specific plants for my climate. Nevertheless the nursery did stand behind it's guarantee.
How Plants Are Shipped
Some plants will be shipped bare root, others as potted plants. This depends on the plant variety and I've actually found preference to bare root plants. They do look dead when they arrive (they are actually dormant), but I assure you that unless they have visible signs of disease like rot they'll thrive come spring.
*Note - If you do get any plants that look like the crown has rotted either ship them back immediately or just phone the nursery and they'll ship out new ones.
When to Plant
While you never know exactly when your plants will arrive, they are shipped to you at the proper planting time for your gardening zone. If plants arrive and it's not convenient to plant immediately just make sure you follow the directions included in your shipment for keeping your plants viable until you can plant them. If you've planned ahead you will know where they go and it'll take you little time to get them in the ground. A Saturday afternoon will usually give you ample time to get this done.
Keep in mind these companies have been in business for years and years and have shipped bare root and potted plants for eons. They do know what they're doing and most of them do it very well. They'd be out of business if they couldn't fulfill your planting requirements.
Gardening Budgets and Selection
You can't beat the cost and selection of ordering by mail! Most mail order companies offer plant varieties you'll never find anywhere else. The selections seem endless and I've been amazed what I can grow in New Mexico. Take advantage of fall specials and free shipping and you get a double bang for you buck. For about half of what I spend on a trip to the garden center on a single spring garden binge, I can have more variety and many more plants shipped to me at home.
Get on the Mailing Lists
Make sure you're on the mailing list for the following nurseries at least! You'll get a catologue several times a year. Take it into the garden with you,look around and plan accordingly. Then hop online and place an order or order by mail, but use the online resources for their help with plant combinations and companion planting. They offer great suggestions you may not have thought of before. Remember - pictures will help any gardener no matter how experienced.
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Pest control This can be approached in stages, depending on the problem. Animals (rabbits, gophers, etc.) can be kept away from food crops by surrounding the area with a wire fence with the base buried in the soil. In the flower garden, plant species they do not like to eat. Protect the stems of trees with a wire guard for the winter (make it high enough to allow for snow) and spray shrub stems with a hot pepper spray after the last rain in fall. Deer and elk are difficult to repel without enclosing the entire garden with a high fence, but there are plants that they are less likely to eat (see list on p. 68).
Large insects, such as caterpillars and beetles, can be picked off by hand and dropped into a bucket of soapy water. When larger plants, like trees, are attacked, the soil directly under their foliage can be covered with drop sheets and the plant shaken to dislodge the pests. The drop sheets can then be carefully lifted and the pests destroyed. Caterpillars that congregate in webbing "nests," like tent caterpillars and fall webworms, should be controlled during the day, when the young larvae have left the nest, by spraying them with Bacillus thuringiensis. Another alternative is to wait until evening when the caterpillars have returned to the nest. Prune off the nests and immerse them in a bucket of soapy water to kill the larvae.
Plants can be protected from damage by soil-dwelling caterpillars, like cutworms, by enclosing them in a barrier made from half a frozen juice can or a circle of heavy-grade tinfoil pushed slightly into the soil. Wireworms (orange and curl into a half circle) and millipedes (dark brown and curl into a spiral) both live in the soil and feed on plant roots or burrow into root crops. They are seldom numerous, except in reclaimed pastureland, but destroy them when digging.
Quick-moving small pests, such as flea beetles, carrot flies, and leafhoppers, can be kept away from young plants -- the most vulnerable -- by covering them with a floating row cover supported on wire hoops made from cut-down clothes hangers. This also gives protection against late frost and against sunscald on newly planted plants.
Slow-moving small pests, like aphids and mites, can be washed off many plants with a strong stream of water, however, this should not be used on plants with large, soft foliage, or on the fragile growing tips of plants. Mites can also be kept to a minimum by spraying frequently with water, using a hand sprayer, and soaking the undersides of the foliage. Planting flowers that attract native predators also helps to control aphids and mites.
Insects can be lured to bright yellow or red traps coated with a nondrying sticky substance, which holds them. There are also traps baited with scent lures called pheromones. These are scents released by insects to attract others of their species. When used in a trap, they may imitate a female scent and entice many of the males to enter. The unbalanced population results in a large reduction in the number of eggs laid, and young hatching.
Many natural predators can be used to help solve a pest problem. They can be released into the garden and will target a specific pest or range of pests (see p. 546). Naturally, it takes time for the predator population to build up sufficiently to bring the problem under control, so there is always a lag between introducing the predator and solving the problem. They rarely completely kill off all the problem pests, but they will bring the population down to acceptable levels. Remember, spraying for pest control will often wipe out the beneficial insects as well.
Nematodes are microscopic wormlike creatures, some of which attack plants, but others are beneficial and attack plant pests. They are especially useful for controlling some lawn pests and are simply mixed with water and applied with a watering can. In warmer parts of the country, one application will give several years control, but in the North, the cold kills them and they need to be reapplied if the problem occurs again.
Bacteria are also weapons in the fight against plant pests. Bacillus thuringiensis kurstaki, commonly known as BT or Dipel, was the original strain that attacks the caterpillars of certain species of moths and butterflies. There are now several other strains of this bacteria that can control Japanese beetle larvae, mosquito larvae, Colorado beetle larvae, and more. A large range of these predators and lures are available by mail or through your local nursery.
If none of the above methods control the problem to your satisfaction, you may have to resort to spraying with one of the organic controls listed on pp. 544–545.
Disease control. This is more difficult than pest control because the disease has usually got a hold on the plant before any symptoms appear. Many fungal diseases are spread by very small spores that float on the breeze and land on a plant leaf. They "germinate" and insert a small thread (called a hyphae) into the plant tissue. This feeds on the plant and grows, forming a network of hyphae between the cells inside the leaf. It is not until this point that the plant begins to show signs of stress -- different colored spots, wilting, or fungal tissue visible (as in mildew). Such leaves should be picked off as soon as noticed and put in the garbage -- not in the compost. If caught in time, this may be enough to stop the further spread of the disease.
Many plants, providing they are not under stress from poor growing conditions, can emit defensive secretions that can either kill fungal spores or limit the damage they can cause. It therefore makes sense to grow plants properly, giving them the soil conditions, acidity or alkalinity, and moisture they grow best in. In addition, allow good air circulation through plants, especially those, like phlox and bergamot, that are prone to mildew. Stagnant air in the middle of a large clump of stems is a mildew heaven.
Other fungi are great opportunists. Although they are not able to directly infect a plant, they can gain entry through stem and leaf wounds. Many cankers fall into this category. They can attack a plant only when it has been damaged by careless hoeing or gain entry through a wound caused by mower damage.
Fungi are important agents in plant decay, and most work in the gardener's favor. They help break down compost and are responsible for rotting wood in forests and returning the nutrients to the soil. Without them, the woods would be choked with dead trees. Some, such as coral spot, will also attack living material that is under stress from another cause. The appearance of small, bright coral-pink fungi on a branch indicates a problem.
Most of the fungicides listed in the chart on pp. 544–545 are preventative, rather than curative. They should be applied before the disease strikes to form a protective layer on the foliage that kills the fungal spores on contact.
Bacteria are minute organisms that can be rod-shaped, spherical, or spiral, and there are several million in a typical teaspoon of soil. They are important in breaking down dead plant material, but a few attack living plants, generally causing plant tissue to disintegrate. Soft rot of iris is a typical bacterial disease. They are difficult to control and long-lived in the soil, but generally specific to one species or group of plants. Avoid replanting the same species in soil where a bacterial disease has been diagnosed. Some bacteria attack certain insects and are used as insecticides.
Virus are submicroscopic primitive life-forms that live inside cells of plants and animals. They tend to be very specific, limiting their attack to a single genus or plant family. Some virus are used as insecticides but others attack plants. There is no cure and infected plants should be dug up and disposed of in the garbage. Infected plants usually have foliage with strange mottling or streaks, and are often puckering as well. The recently discovered virus attacking hostas is typical in this way. Plant infections can be spread by hand, shears, and other gardening tools. Newly infected plants may take several years to show symptoms, during which time the virus can be spread to other plants. Virus are also spread by sapsucking insects, such as leafhoppers, so controlling these insects is very important. Many modern varieties of vegetables, especially tomatoes, have built-in resistance to some of the virus and other diseases that attack them. This information is usually indicated by a series of code letters in seed catalogs.
Compost Tea
Homemade compost or special compost preparations available from garden suppliers are the basis of this tea. Simply put a shovelful of finished compost in a burlap sack and immerse it in a bucket of water for about a week. Strain the resulting tea through cheesecloth or some other material to remove all solids. Use the tea full-strength to water any and all plants in your garden. Compost tea not only provides a wide range of nutrients, but it also boosts plants' natural defenses against disease. Spraying plants with aerated compost tea can convey even greater benefits. To make aerated compost tea, follow the instructions that come with the compost preparations procured from a garden supplier.
Herbal Sprays
While herbal sprays do not appear to actually kill insects, they do seem to act as an effective repellent, and spraying plants with a tea made of garden herbs may help to keep them pest-free. Sage, thyme, rosemary, and white clover seem to help ward off attacks from leaf-eating caterpillars. To make, either soak 1 cup of fresh leaves overnight in 2 cups of water or pour 2 cups of boiling water over 2 cups of fresh leaves. To use, strain, dilute with an equal amount of water, and add a few drops of liquid soap (not detergent) to act as a spreader.
Stinging Nettle Spray
Stinging nettles grow as weeds in the eastern parts of the country but they can be used to make a spray that helps plants resist disease attacks.
When collecting nettles to make the spray, wear long pants, cover the arms, and wear good work gloves. Place about 1 pound of nettle leaves and young stalks in a bag and soak it in 1 gallon of chlorine-free water (tap water that has stood uncovered for 48 hours). Cover the bucket and leave it in a warm place for a week. The mixture will have a strong smell when uncovered and may need straining through a cheesecloth. Dilute with five times its volume of chlorine-free water and spray plants that are known to be susceptible to fungus diseases. Spray every 2 weeks for continued coverage. It also helps deter aphids and acts as a foliar feed. Store any unused spray concentrate in a glass jar, it will keep for a month.
Starch Spray
This forms a sticky coating on the leaf surface, which traps the pests and holds them until they die. It works best on small pests like aphids and thrips, rather than on large beetles and caterpillars. Mix 2-4 tablespoons of potato flour (available in health food stores) in one quart of water and add a few drops of liquid soap as a sticker. Shake well and spray onto the plants, covering the entire leaves. It will wash off in rain or can be hosed off after a few days.
Garlic Oil Spray
A mix of garlic, mineral oil, and soap gives very good results against many sucking and chewing insects. These include aphids, cabbageworms, leafhoppers, larval mosquitoes, squash bugs, and whiteflies.
Some plants are sensitive, so try it on a single shoot first. If there is no damage after 48 hours, spray the entire plant. Soak 3 ounces of finely chopped garlic in 2 teaspoons of mineral oil for 24 hours. Dissolve 1 teaspoon of insecticidal soap in 2 cups of water and add it to the garlic and oil. Stir well and strain. To use, add 1-2 tablespoons to 2 cups of water and spray on the pests. Store the remainder in a glass container for future use.
Hot Pepper Dust
Grow your own hot peppers to provide the source for a repellent dust that will help protect plants from cabbage maggots, carrot root flies, ants, and other pests. Dry the harvested pepper first, and then grind them with a mortar and pestle (always wear protective eye gear and gloves when working with hot peppers because the dust can be very irritating to your eyes). Sprinkle the dust along plant rows just after seeding or around the base of young plants. Apply more dust after rainfall or watering.
The above is an excerpt from the book The All-New Illustrated Guide to Gardening: Planning - Selection - Propagation - Organic Solutions by Edited by Fern Marshall Bradley and Trevor Cole. The above excerpt is a digitally scanned reproduction of text from print. Although this excerpt has been proofread, occasional errors may appear due to the scanning process. Please refer to the finished book for accuracy.
Copyright © 2009 Fern Marshall Bradley and Trevor Cole, editors of The All-New Illustrated Guide to Gardening: Planning - Selection - Propagation - Organic Solutions
Author Bio
Fern Marshall Bradley, co-editor with Trevor Cole of The All-New Illustrated Guide to Gardening, is a writer and editor whose favorite topics are gardening and sustainable living. A co-author of Reader's Digest's Vegetable Gardening, she also conceived and edited The Organic Gardener's Handbook of Insect and Disease Control, The Expert's Book of Garden Hints, among others. Bradley is a former gardening books editor for Rodale.
Trevor Cole, co-editor with Fern Marshall Bradley of The All-New Illustrated Guide to Gardening, was curator of the Dominion Arboretum in Ottawa, Canada, for over 20 years. He was educated in horticultural science at the Royal Botanical Gardens in the U.K. Cole's previous offerings include numerous magazine articles and the books Care-Free Plants and The New Ottawa Gardener.
By: Fern Marshall Bradley and Trevor Cole
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